Thomas James Richards, Diaries, Transcript Vol. 1, 26 August 1914 to 24 April 1915 - Part 15

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in the 25 yards by 10 yards bath and a good shower-bath

afterwards. It is the first swim since leaving
Sydney and as the sun shone brilliantly I did not
much miss not having a towel with me. We got back
for dinner too late to go on parade at 2 p.m. and as it
was A. Section's day for leave, I applied and got a
pass from 3 until 11 p.m., so I dressed and made away
like a redshank for Cairo. On arrival I had the best
shave since leaving Sydney, also by an Italian barber
while a coon cleaned my boots and leggings. With my
hair scented and brushed and the reflection of passing
traffic on my boots I sallied forth feeling better than
I have had occasion to feel for several months. And
all for 1/- - 5 piastres.
I stolled away down the Mouskey in search
of a presentation shop to buy something for Mother
and W.T.B. but first I sent in 24 films to have 14
dozen prints taken off at 7 piastres a dozen, to be
ready on Saturday. I battled off on my lonesome to
see what would be likely to be of interest as presents.
The semi-native or bazaar quarter was seething with a
hustling, picturesque crowd, and I was pleased to be
alone so as to take it all in as deeply as possible.
But very soon a well-clad Bedouin guide accosted me
and cheerily stated he knew me and didn’t I know him.
He said "My name is Solomon. Mye very well known at
Mena. Don’t you remember me?" Adding, "You are the
man who climbed up the 2nd Pyramid and also over the
top of the King's Chamber. I know you very well
indeed." I was going to push him off, as these damned
fellows cling and bleed one like leeches; but how
could I in face of his grand introduction. Then it
dawned upon me that I did not know where the bazaars
were, and as I suddenly felt a bit lonely I thought
I might as well take Solomon with me. He would surely

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cost me a few bob but as I would be able to prevent
him from talking and I would still be at liberty to
wander where I wished and look as long as I liked at
whatever I liked, I allowed Solomon to come along with
me and now I am extremely glad as it was a good night
and I got my presents to greater satisfaction than
I otherwise might. We went into one store and saw
some lovely workmanship - big cut-glass chandeliers,
nice carved copper and brass pots for plants and for
rose bowls, lovely Arabic work boxes and mosaic tables
and fire-screens. They were grand but yet there was
nothing to just please me under the sum of £4 so the
best I could do was a brooch at 16 piastres - 3/2½.
We then went further along to the silk bazaar, but as
I was there on Sunday night last I did not stay long.
Still I saw some lovely pieces of jewellery out of the
safe. A Jew in a red cap tried to sell some pretty
coloured embroidery but what use was such stuff to me
and probably Win would only laugh at the absurdity of
the work. It was a treat to hear and to see the way
the fellow tried to sell me something and beat down
my opposition. But I had to pass him over, though
somewhat regretfully. We visited several places unsuccessfully

before coming upon a brass-worker in
a narrow little out-of-the-way place by the name
"Mah. Abow Taleb & M. Tewfik Irani, Khan Khalili,
Cairo, Egypt." His card I have placed in my scrapbook.
I overhauled several cwts. of pots, vases
and bowls until I got down to one vase, one bowl and
an ash tray. Mahommet wanted 25/- but took 20/-
after the usual argument and bother - in fact it was
worse as I had to get through my guide to reach him
as the Egyptian could not understand me. We closed
the deal and made away. Passed a crowd of real
Oriental coffee drinkers and long-necked pipe smokers

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seated and lounging about in a most comfortable and
satisfied way, often with one leg up on the form
beside them and a long rubber tube leading up from
an elaborate glass jar pipe; at peace with the world
puffing out thin spiral clouds of smoke most
mechanically.
Solomon gave me the descriptions, or really
I should say interpreted the designs on the vases for
me, which was an intricate undertaking with so poor a
knowledge of English, but after thirty minutes' testing
of wits and patience I got the information I was
looking for, though Solomon, guide like, tried to tell
me anything and lie for peace and easiness sake, but
I fought him as I have paid some attention to Egyptian
mythology and would not be side-tracked. Then we
drank our Persian tea and voted it first class. I
have not tested tea so nice for some considerable time.
I then tried their Turkish coffee, but it fell short
of expectations. We drifted back towards the centre
of the town along the Mouskey, when I asked this
black son of a vagabond if there were any clean Arabic
cafes about where we could have a decent Arabic dinner.
He assured me that there were many and he would be
pleased to find one. We walked a mile or so and
entered a foul-looking side street, perhaps 14 feet
wide, the first turn to the right and on the left was
a most depressing native eating-house and to my
surprise Solomon was steering straight for it. I
hesitated. Solomon asked "Did I not like the place?"
but there was no turning back now with any honour
or reasonable excuse, so I entered the den, stooping
down at the doorway to do so. Inside I immediately
regained my composure and seated myself on a low
chair in a position that allowed me to see the whole
room and my peculiarly garvbed fellow diners.

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Solomon sat opposite to me on a long, narrow form
with his back against the light blue but much-damaged
and greasy wall, facing the chipped and rocking marble
table. I discussed the menu with the over-fed proprietor.

He had a fat, oily face bound around with a
badly washed white turban and a loose di^rty gown
hanging from the shoulders, with a sharp-pointed pair
of reddish brown slippers dragging aimlessly along
with stockingless feet, and our discussion ensured
through the agency of Solomon, as the embarrassed
proprietor knew not a word of the language I spoke.
Anyhow the first course was served by a slim youth
on remarkably clean plates with knife and fork. I
got a whole lot of hard miniature sausages on one
plate and a few quarters of fried potatoes on another.
My bronze-coloured companion got a junky, sweaty-looking

piece of beef, a tumbler of water, and
between us was a dish of uninviting tomato and lettuce
salad flavoured beyond the capabilities of my palate
with a strong vegetable oil. Assisted by over-large
portions of Arab bread. (these are about the size of a
dinner plate and very thin - somewhat like an extra
large pancake) I got along surprisingly well. The
second course consisted of beans. A diagnosis failed
to distinguish their peculiarity so they were
hurriedly returned. Then followed a plate of rice
distinctly unlike any rice previously experienced,
and later a portion of sweet crumbling stuff which
looked like fine grained brown sugar, and between the
two I did eat moderately well. I was conveniently
thirsty and with only water to slack it, and as the
water did not look healthy enough, I ordered a bottle
of beer, which was quite good. The bottle was
labelled -

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Biere des Pyramids
Blonde.
At the bottom ran a notice as follows:-
"The only Brewery in Egypt in which no Germans or
Austrians are employed." I don't usually smoke but
in order to linger and watch the lower middle class
of Cairo at dinner in the ugly-looking room, I got
a queer looking cigar and the slovenly angular waiter
struck a match and lighted it for me. With crossed
legs and tilted chair I watched the scenes that
opened up and went on around me. They were strikingly
entertaining, and as the cigar reduced the atmospheric
pressure around me I was quite at ease. Solomon
reminded me that time was waning and so called the
ill-clad but prosperous proprietor over, to whom I
paid 9 piastres (1/10) and left the establishment
in good spirits but am hardly likely to return to it
again.
I soon afterwards paid Solomon 5 piastres (1/-)
for services rendered and went away into the
city proper to make a few minor purchases and return
by tram to camp. While waiting for the tram the usual
number of hawkers came around begging and pestering to
either clean one's boots, sell oranges 4 for ½,
notebooks, walking sticks, watches, fountain pens,
boxes, soap, cigarettes, handkerchiefs, paper and
chocolates. I was highly amused at their wiles and
tricks. They are indeed hawkers to the finest
definition of the word.
I got back to camp at 9.45 pleased, perhaps,
for the first time that I have been into Cairo.
I intend to go in alone in future also.
There was a new moon last night and Solomon
tells me that the old women fortune tellers

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of the villages say that the moon appearing on its
back argues for a speedy termination of the war.
21st January, 1915. A day's tent pitching for the
Base Hospital people who have just arrived to form a
permanent base hospital as Mena House is too costly to
run. We worked splendidly and surprised all the
officers present by the work done.
Our tent has been in a very cranky humour
to-day. Everything seems to be going wrong. Bob
Miller and I have been saying uncomplimentary things
to each other. He is infernally lazy and a youthful
sort of squeaker.
I am writing to-night in the mess room.
22nd January, 1915. The artillery had a good day's
gun practice yesterday. We could hear the gun reports,
the screaming and then the explosion of the shell quite
distinctly from the camp. Rifle fire has been going
on all around us, at very short ranges, for weeks now -
sometimes with miniature arms but latterly with the
regimental rifles.
I am on guard. The Corporal in charge
has favoured me with the last change, which means
getting all day to write up the many letters I am
anxious to do.
23rd January, 1915. I came off guard at 10 a.m.
and got busy writing. I was on the line from 6 a.m.
to 10 a.m. Daybreak was about 6.30 but for a long
time now we have not had any pretty sun effects,
even the moon and nights are not at all bright.
This Cairo nevertheless seems to have a wonderful
climate, as we expected a much shorter winter

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having heard so much about the heat. There was nothing
doing in the afternoon either, and I went into Cairo
especially to get the prints taken at Memphis, which
were splendidly done at 7 piastres a dozen. I got 14
dozen of them for the different fellows, and went right
away home in the tram.
I posted a parcel to W.T.B. containing 1
silver and copper inlaid vase, 1 metal worked box and a
gold (gilted) and enamelled brooch for 8 piastres.
Also registered a small packet of camel-hair cloth.
An ash tray to Mrs. Hynes.
24th January, 1915. There is nothing much to chronicle
of to-day. This however is usual. In the morning
instead of Church we shifted some 70 patients out of
the tents over to the newly created base hospital,
the whole of our waggons (10) being in use. I carried
one down on a stretcher and it hurts me to be monkeying
around with sick people when my work should be fighting.
A nation depends upon the number of its enemy it can
kill to win a battle; but then they turned me down
when I hung about Rosberry Park in Sydney waiting for
a place in the Light Horse.
In the afternoon I did some washing and
mending so that my outfit is in good order when the
time comes to move off and everybody is talking with
surety that it will be on Wednesday when we relieve
the fellows on the Suez Canal.
25th January, 1915. It is now Thursday and my diary
is further behind than ever it has been. There was
nothing exciting however. I made one of the party to
pitch tent for the incoming hospital parties. I
understand that they are going to keep a permanent

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hospital staff here at Mena.
Many stories are told of the nurses' misbehaviour
with the officers on the "Kiarra" during
the voyage across, when everybody had a glorious time.
26th January, 1915. I ran away from the tent pitching
party this morning and wandered away up to the Sphinx
where I took a number of photographs including some
half the way up the Pyramids. As I was alone and
badly wanted a picture showing the size of the rock,
I took my old friend No. 25 up with me, paying him
2 piastres to take the camera. It might have been
vanity that told me I must get my photo on the Pyramids
but perhaps not after all as these things recall many
pleasant memories in after years. After dinner I went
back tent pitching and mucked about until 4 o'clock
when I cleared off to have a shave, and that damned
nigger was in the midst of an argument, attending to
my shave between times only. He kept rubbing his
dirty hands over my face and feeling about to such an
extent that I had to blow him up in language other
than polite. His razor was in good working order
but he fiddled about so that I have at last sworn off
going near these fellows any more and buying a razor
of my own.
After tea Bob Miller amd "Pido" with a rope
went over to the caverns on the Arab village side and
saw some decent old tombs with carving. I tried to
throw a rope over the Sphinx so as to climb up, but
without success. We went into the Temple of the
Sphinx, then we came up around the Khoeps Pyramid
and climbed up into the five chambers over the top
of the King's after much struggling and crawling
amongst bats' dung and fine dust.

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Supper at Pedo's expense in the native village
which has sprung up as by magic between the camp and
Pyramids. Here we spent a pleasant hour and found an
Arab man whose marriage was arranged by his father and
immediately he saw his wife he disliked her and later
they took her away. He had to forfeit a certain sum
of money by so doing but still the girl's father also
had to return a portion of the sum arranged.
26th January, 1915. To-day is a holiday in New
South Wales. I went before the damned nuisance of a
Colonel this morning and asked for leave this afternoon
so that I could call on my bankers and draw some
money which was being sent forward from South Africa.
He granted it after asking questions as to the genuineness
of my story. I lied and beat him and for once
in my life I am glad of having told a lie. This
soldier game has no conscience at all. It's just a
matter of get what you want in the easiest way but
get it. Pidcock and I went into the Museum by motor
car. I sat up on the back seat and got the full
force of the lovely wind as we glided rapidly along
the straight level road for some seven miles until we
came to the fine gardens near the golf links, racecourse,
tennis courts and the Kedival Palace, bordering
on the Nile River. A number of long-masted
sailing boats had just gone under the bridge and
looked so grace-ful and pretty.
At the Museum we came in touch with two
nurses and I quite enjoyed a few moments' conversation
with them, as they are the first women I have
spoken to since leaving Sydney some months that seem
like years, ago. From the Museum with its weeks of
intense interest we went to Saults for afternoon tea.

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It was very fine indeed. Then off up the Mousky where
we barracked and bartered with the shopkeepers and
bazaar thieves and drank tea at a Turkish cafe which was
an excellent and picturesque sight. A donkey ride, or
really a race, between Neve, Pido and I. Pido won
but not without extending his animal to its fullest
along the traffic-strewn narrow street. I then
bought a razor at 15 piastres which I like very much
and which I hope is good enough to keep me away from
those damnable camp barbers. Dinner for 10 piastres
at the Italian Cafe. It is a nice, clean and quiet
place with a good meal, though perhaps hardly
sufficient for the wonderful appetites that we
healthy fellows possess. We haggled with another
silk and novelty dealer, and then found the last tram
car had gone so we again (three of us this time) got
a motor car at 2/- each for the 10 mile drive home.
I got two small brass vases but I wanted some mummies
and could not strike a reasonable price. It was a
great day right enough.
28th January, 1915. I am somewhat tired this morning
but fortunately have very little to do. There was no
water in the taps before early morning parade and I
missed it dreadfully. I don't know how miserable it
will be when we get away from water as may be our lot
at any time.
I am mess orderly to-day and have to
wash and clean down the tables and forms as well as
wash the damned dickies. The day was very dusty and
windy and cold.
We have been receiving tinned fruit and
fish in abundance for the past 12 days. It seems there
was a big stock on hand and it had to be reduced as we
would probably have to shift on at any moment. But