Diary of Lindsay Robert Turner, 1919 (Vol. 7) - Part 6

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for at 3 after taking on a cargo

of frozen meat we headed for home

straight down the Canal. No waves of

pity of sympathy passed thro' us as

we saw Port Said fading in the distance.

We had seen quite enough of that part

of Egypt. It was interesting going tho'

the Canal even tho' it was monotonous

and the pace was slow. We passed

the railway bridge at Cantara at 7

and thence on it became too dark

to distinguish much. Those on board

who had spent months at Ishmalia

and Ferrys Post remained awake

to talk of their sojourn there even

tho' were unable to see the places

of interest.

9/4/19 As soon as we reached the

terminus of the Canal and Suez

which those of us who had travelled

to Egypt by the "Port Sydney" remembered

well, the Pilot was relieved of his

duties and we moved on Port

Tewfik was only a short distance

off when I reached the main deck

at 7 but soon we became more

interested in the bare and barren

land on either side of us and as

morning progressed enquiries could

be heard on all sides as to where 

51
Mt Sinai was and where the
Israelites had crossed over to the
Promised Land. The nursing staff
are the chief offenders why they
should be of a more enquiring turn
of mind than the men I dont know.
It was not within my province to
enlighten them however. The passage
down the Red Sea is very uninteresting
and it will take us all of 4 days
but games and a good library
of books will keep us busy. Just
as we were moving in the lighthouse
on the last of the Islands at
the entrance to the Gulf of Suez could
be seen and now we are in the
Red Sea.
10/4/19. We notice as we proceed on
our way how very near the Tropics
we are. Naturally the Red Sea enclosed
on both sides by a howling waste
would be tropical by nature but
two or three days should see us
steaming thro' the Straits into the
open sea. No land could be seen
on either side tho at one stage
in the days run we passed a
submerged rock carefully protected
by a Lighthouse and, what we did
notice was the varying colour of 

52 
the water in the vicinity which looked
quite picturesque. There was nothing
but endless wash of water and as
we proceeded on deck with our
bedding to sleep the moon was
causing the waves to assume all
sorts of fantastic shapes.
11/4/19 Still water on all sides and
still a humid atmosphere but we
are gradually throwing convention
to the winds and dressing to suit
the climate the oriental loin cloth
has not yet appeared however
some things have happened to
disturb the monotony. A large
shoal of flying fish was seen
early in the morning evidence of the
Tropics and our first tho' none
managed to fall on deck as the
sea novelists would have us believe
does happen. Our boat is a very
indolent one the Engineers blame
the Coal but all she averages is
275 miles per day on the "Czaritza".
We could get 330 with ease Still
we are on the way home and that's
something. We should be out of the
Red Sea by Sunday morning and
then a 2000 mile run to Colombo
is before us. Let us hope there is 

53
no timid staff in command there
otherwise no leave. Quite an
interesting sight was The Southern
Cross which could just be picked
up on the horizon by means of a
telescope something we can call
our own at least.
12/4/19. We passed a very indolent
day tho' the "powers that be" made
an attempt to make us realise
we were still under Martial Law
Those returned for Medical and
surgical reasons had to parade
at 3 first for inspection so it turned
out tho' we had vague fears it
may be a drafting into fit for 
duty or otherwise. Then at 3 30
a wild rush for tea for the "fit
for duty or otherwise" had been
disturbed at their afternoon's
Seista and at 4 we had Boat
drill not the wild rush for places
we used to have on the Port
Sydney for the submarine menace
has now declined somewhat and
moreover the O.C. is not an Alderson
Evidence that we were approaching
the Straits was at hand. In the 
large number of passing vessels 

54
we saw fully ten. The morrow
should see us well clear of Hell's
Gates and then in the distance Colombo.
13/4/19 I was sleeping on deck in my
favorite spot and at 6 30 precisely
was sufficiently wide awake to take
notice of land sighted on our Starboard
bow. It happened to be one
of the Hannish Isles barren cliffs
merely but picturesque enough to
us who had not seen land for
three or four days. We were passing
between the two largest islands at
the time and just then no less than
4 large steamers hove in sight all on
their way homewards. Just as
midday was approaching we observed
land on both sides and so on until
the Straits were passed it gradually
narrowed. Perim which seemed
quite an ideal spot to live on
judging by the mainland on
either side is right in the center
almost of the Straits. We cleared
them about 3 and had an excellent
opportunity of viewing thro the
glasses the picturesque little
harbour nestling at the foot of 

55
of a grassy slope Crowned by 
what looked like the Centre of
Naval Activity the home of the
Administrator. We were soon out in
the Gulf of Suez and taking it for
granted that we would go by Cape
Guardafui ^which should be in the vicinity
some time on Tuesday.
14/4/19. We had one of the quietest days
on record today nothing but sea
on all sides no ships and no
porpoises and the wind which was
fairly strong in the morning died
down later and we got the benefit
of the Afternoon Sun. A meeting was
held to organise a sports' meeting
and it was fixed for Friday. If it
were possible to have water events
the conditions would be ideal.
Easter is coming on us all too
soon for this is Easter Week and
we were all more or less anxious
to be home for the happy event.
15/4/19 Just as we were all scanning
the horizon for a fresh aspect of
Africa and Cape Guardafui the
Captain announced that we had seen
our last of the "Dark Continent
 

56 

as owing to the prevalence of
monsoons it was inadvisable to
follow the usual course between
Abal Kuri and the Mainland and
we were skirting the Northern Coast
of Socotra instead. It was a keen
disappointment as we had hoped
to get a view of the glorious sunset over
Guardafui as the sun dipped into
the heart of Africa. Oh well no more
sight of land until we run into
Colombo which should be next
Monday at the earliest. I don't know
how the Captain could have anticipated
monsoons as the sea was gradually
approaching a state of dead calm.
perhaps it is the "Calm before the Storm"
16/4/19 Still no storm and the sea
calm as a mill-pond perhaps calmer
than I've ever seen it before and
to be marvelled at Now we are well
on in the Indian Ocean. It was
nevertheless an excellent opportunity
of seeing the many shoals of flying
fish as the boat disturbed their
midday siesta. Just after lunch
we witnessed another curious and
interesting display. A School of
some hundred porpoises rose
suddenly in front of us and a
 

57
weird sight it was as with perfect
unison almost they threw themselves
in mid air and continued to do
so for several hundred yards. The
sea was smooth as glass so that
the display was under ideal conditions.
17/4/19 We are gradually getting
back to the main route to Colombo
again and to evidence the fact
passed two steamers on their homeward
journey quite a break "in an
otherwise unblemished career” We
had a sports gathering this afternoon
quite an interesting affair and the
large upper deck lends itself to
anything of such a nature. A digger
who followed the career of a Brigadier
rather successfully in a Competition
for "the Most Original Character"
created some amusement in the Saloon
for Afternoon tea. The wind which
made life bearable thro' the Red Sea
has now practically ceased so that
really it seems to be getting hotter
each day but the nights are Cool
and we sleep well.

58

18/4/19 Good Friday at last and how
we should all like to have been
home for the holidays. We just spent
the usual day tho' one thing at
least is worth recording at midday
precisely the sun was directly overhead
for some of us such a state of
affairs will not happen for many
along day. It was pay day for the
men as well and "house" which
had lain dormant for some weeks
broke forth in all its fury. Strange
that as soon as one has money
to burn it takes little persuasion
to supply the necessary match. We
will reach Colombo on Tuesday
morning early Ihope I shall be
quenching from thirst with Gin slings
in some plaza at Kandy before
night falls.
19/4/19. For Easter Saturday it was the
quietest of days at home we should
be holiday-making to some order but
our energies are somewhat restricted
on the boat and no one elected to
climb to the top of the mast to
show that the exuberance of youth
 

59
was still on the upgrade. Most
of us were writing home letters
as the mail closes on Monday tho'
of course any Australian letters will
be taken on with us and posted at
Fremantle. We had a very good lecture
by our Education Officer after dinner
on "The Growth of Civilisation" the
second of a series and on Monday
a Court Martial will be held to decide
whether the accused used bad language
or was merely preaching a sermon
on an historic occasion.
20/4/19 We weren't able to remain
on deck blissfully asleep quite so
long this morning as an early
Church Service was to be held
but somehow one doesn't mind
that as long as he can slip into
the bath. At midday ahead in
the distance could be discerned
a low fringe of land evidently the
Island of Minicoy. midway between
the Laccadive and Maldive groups.
A closer inspection revealed a very
pretty view of land studded with
palms a marked contrast to what
we had last left clearing the Straits
of Babelmandeb and so typical of
Ceylon. We passed quite close and