Diary of Staff Nurse Christine Erica Strom - 1917-1919 - Part 1

Melb. June 12^th 1917
Actually off - 5.30pm. on active service
abroad. The memory lingers - d crowded
wharf - our own dear friends faces
among the throng - colored streamers
of all shades; the grey clad nurses
the khaki Corp ashore. Norwood & I
were together at the rail - if only
our cabin was the same! Dinner
a real adventure - chocolate coloured
stewards, plates after plates
and selfhelped courses. – we sampled
everything c̄ some  qualms, not so
far justified. Turning in
now – 10 p.m. Scott & Melville
also separated & all retired.
Today has been stiff – hours
and hours on our feet – the
Gov. Gen. inspected us 11 a.m.
a regular performance.
 

Wed. 13/6/17. Oh my! Very sick all
day - lay upon deck in chair &
threatened Norwood c̄ sudden death
when she offered me chocolates. Adelaide
tomorrow.
Thurs 14/6/17 Had a most glorious day.
All seasickness forgotten. Were met at
Adelaide by Mayor & C. re – marched
under fixed bayonets, were taken in
motor round the town. Exhibition for
lunch – much speechifying – many
photos taken –  went shopping c̄
Tenp. after lunch, bought [[waffles?]]!
1.30 were met by motorists again &
taken up the hills & afterward to
afternoon tea at Mr Marshalls – 
most delightful home. Were real
sorry to see the grey old ship
again. The Adelaide folk were
good to us. Sailed at 6pm
–— night! Got letters.
Friday 15^th  Very Sick!
Sat.   Likewise!
Sunday      "          only more so.
Monday Had very rough night last night
the roughest for 10 years they told us - at
this point - was very sick indeed all
day. Got into Fremantle 7p.m. - went
ashore  č Melville. Sent wire home.
Were directed by Horwood's cousin.
Had Shore tea (so much & so long
desired!) but couldn't enjoy it - was too
much afraid of vomiting publicly. Got
some fruit & cleared back to ship -
& to bed. They were coaling last night
- also loading in hatches outside our
cabin & making a fearful row. Had a
good night, nevertheless - it was good oh to
be still! Had some S.V.G. last night -
first time! Mr Anderson met ship but I
missed him - he saw S. Hetherington.
Scores of flying fish here. 

Tues. Saw the last of Australia this
a.m. - gave me a queer sort of desolate feeling.
Felt much better most of day - Wrote
letters on top deck. Sick at night again
- blow! "Lights out" precaution start today
Wed. Better day - fine & warmer - decks
enclosed c̄ awning. Melville & I went
to meals together & sat near door! Am
getting hungry. French soldiers sang
most delightfully - bit wistful.
All the melodies sung or played on
this ship seem to be melancholic. Card
parties tonight - M.H. out of it - Sat
up on deck & discussed "How to be
happy though torpedoed" & "Hints for
the Shipwrecked". Temp. concerned about
Sharks - we are thinking of rubbing
Turps. on our legs: also making food
belts. Had first life belt drill
this a.m. - by first officer who told
Melville he was nervous but didn't
look it a bit
Thurs. Very much better - Melville & I have appetites which
occasion us grave anxiety lest we shall be late for meals.
Wrote letters & more letters. It's very S hot. Slept up
on deck tonight for first time - we are not allowed to
retire till 10.45p.m. - some of them went up early & were
sent back. A motley but picturesque procession
10.30 - dressingowns & boudoir caps - Capt. & P.M. were
about - inspecting our behaviour. Hope they settle
down earlier tomorrow night. Wireless war news today
Fri  A muffled but imperative gong called us at
5.50 a.m. - bit early getting up then - general move
off 6 a.m. - All of us much laden c̄ rugs & pillows.
The Lascars enjoy the spectacle gravely. Deck chair
make ones neck stiff. Concert tonight.
Sat. Had a relapse! Too much nourishment - starved
all day c̄ good effect. Feel very sleepy these days
on account of enforced early rising. "Informal" dance
& how could it be otherwise than informal? tonight on
top deck. M.&H. & I derived much entertainment from
watching the romances develop - there are quite a
number in progress. Cherry [[?]] tangoed with the Capt.
to our great joy. We are permitted to wear our 

prints instead of the mess dress & Peter Pan Collars,
It's getting fearfully hot: the sea is intensely blue,
It gets dark so quickly here - the sun drops suddenly.
Sunday. Feel much better this a.m. - appetite restored.
Church parade this a.m. - padre addressed us on
ideals, and did it well. Church seems most impressive
at sea, somehow, I think it hit us all up a bit.
Wrote more letters. Rumours as to our destination.
Monday. They say we are not going to Salonika
but no one appears to know where we are going. Had
Shampoo &c. at barber's - are not permitted to
use electric irons here: disquieting rumours that
the laundry will wash no more for the Sisters - there
is too much to do. Tomorrow we cross the line -
Neptune's orders carried round by sailor dressed as
bear & "woof-woofing" most realistically. We gave
him chocolates but he only trod on them & made a
mess. French Soldiers received their orders c̄ almost
hysterical joy - we all went and looked on &
enjoyed it. Rumours that our darkeys refuse to
travel in the danger zone & get off at Bombay - they
say they are most dangerous for Europeans if
there is danger & they are afraid they will be drowned,
which sounds cheerful! Gun practice this a.m. - very
entertaining - boxes flung out & Ship's course altered,
three shots fired. I hate noises of guns. Tried to get
photo. of it but failed - couldn't get the range. Puffs of
spray rising further & further away as shell flew
along the surface of water. Book evening tonight -
Tom Sawyer good - also To right the wrong, also
Cost of a lie. Took our iced lemons out on deck -
we drink a fearful lot of it these days. They are an
untidy crew here - the poor stewards run round far
into the night, tidying up. Very warm on deck when
we turned in.
Tuesday. 26^th June. Water remarkable this a.m. -
oily and smooth, c̄ no ripples - just a swell -
looks bilious. Got rough later on during day. Slept all the
a.m. & didn't lunch - get so jolly sleepy nowadays. Neptune's
ceremony 4.30 - we all enjoyed it - tried to get snaps but
couldn't. French soldiers real sports - our saloon steward
ducked - looked very sick. Rained during Service -
slept on deck despite it. Melville & I had lemon
drinks on the side deck, on the cheap. 

Wed. 27th. Rained this early a.m. had a rotten night
all very sleepy this morning! Had a second relapse -
vomited p.c.! Ship ahoy this p.m. - apparently
going past toward Australia. Gave us all the blues
a trifle. Cold day - some rain & much wind.
Colombo tomorrow - good-oh!
Mongolia missed off Bombay - two days ago.
Thurs. Colombo this a.m. Our first impression of the
harbor is unforgettable - dozens of wee fishing boats c̄ 
brown-orange sails, natives scantily clad on rafts of
two boards, barges, coaling hulks, - all manner of
craft, and strange birds, black & a glorious orange.
The natives swarmed up the boat decks & begged for coins
& small boys sang "Tipperary" and "Tara rara boonideay"
c̄ scant success. The beautiful chocolate skins of the
men shone & the sun & their skirts were wonderfully
created of hues strange and designs unique. We
got away by launch about 1 p.m. - got into rickshaws
at the wharf & were driven to the G.F.H. - the
beautiful tropical trees, all so vividly green
and cool and fresh are everywhere. Govt.
House garden is beautiful c̄ its creepers &
shrubs & fountain & birds. Our party (we went)
in batches of 8 c̄ a 2 Star sister as the 9th in charge)
Went to the G.O.H. for afternoon tea after leaving luggage
at the G.F.H.. They charged us 1 rupee each for tea
- in truth this is a dear land. The G.F.H. a 
typical tropical hotel - cool portico - wide white halls,
palms, punkahs, natives everywhere. Shopped in the
afternoon - all the natives in the street surround us
on every expedition, all clamoring and waving their
wares under our very noses. We bought panamas at an
English shop. Dinner at G.F.H. & after dinner a motor trip
to Mt. Lavinia - the scenic moonlight & c̄ a driver who was
some driver - sure! The native quarters fascinated us
& we loved the bullock carts trundling away to market
like our Chinese carts in Melbourne, c̄ a grave native
seated on the pole of the wagon, grunting and hitting the
beast c̄ a short thick stick. Mt. Lavinia a silent
place - we sat on the sea shore, (Horwood & I discussed
the possibility of cobras!) and after lemon drinks at
the hotel - handed to us in the empty drawing room
by three solemn native waiters - drove back to the
G.F.H. where we heard that we were not permitted
to go out after dark - whereof we rejoiced that we
had not known before. Splendid night - Horwood
 

I were the lucky ones of our party & had a bed each
in a delightful room facing the sea - the others all
shared beds & some of the other detachments had to sleep
on the floor! The lights are carefully guarded here - no
light must be visible from the sea - and in the streets
the lamps are darkened on the sea side, and are not
very plentiful anywhere. The motor driver told us that the
wealthy Cingalese householders (and very fine houses they had
too) were not permitted to use more than a certain amount
of light & that protected - so that lights will not give enemy
spies at sea a clue to the whereabouts of harbour or
City. Some of the Cingalese homes are very artistically
designed - our man had a sense of the beautiful - "Very"
nice bungalow" he would say as he pointed them out to
us. He drove us through Cinnamon Gardens where he said
the Europeans live & where he plucked us leaves of the
cinnamon tree. We saw also several churches, & synagogues
& temples. And the air was delightful - the
roads good - bush on either side after we passed the
native quarters - and the fireflies flitting in and out
of the palm trees and along the road side were like vivid
parks. Altogether a time that will live in the memory.
Friday || After breakfast were driven to Station in motors,
& got special train to Kandy 9.10 a.m. from Colombo Fort Stn.
The views going up were most beautiful - natives in fields
of paddy - green vegetation, rivers and canals &
further up glorious vistas of valley & hill - rocks of
huge size towering high above us - ravines stretching
away below - rivulets and waterfalls, jungle
c̄ tangled creeper and dense under growth. At every station
here we stopped crowds of natives gathered, and offered
fruit & all sorts of things at extortionate prices. We asked
one old darkey if we could get a drink at one station
& he said "Whisky & soda?" quite seriously as though
that were the only drink he knew. Kandy Station
and road one dense mob of natives - rickshaws
motors, garries all clanging bells & their drivers
all shouting at once! Were driven to Queen's Hotel
rooms delightful & c̄ a view. M.H. & I share a room.
After lunch were driven in rickshaws up the hill roads
(?Lady Horton drive) and to the pool where the Kandian elephants
bathe, Most beautiful views & most wonderful vegetation.
Breadfruit, cocoanuts, cocoa trees, tea, rice
cinnamon: had afternoon tea on return to Queens
& later went to the Temple of the Holy Tooth &
all the adjoining temples. It was interesting
but most eerie & gave us all the creeps. The
images of Buddha were grotesque & some
almost repulsive. We were shown the altar
c̄ the sacred flowers. Various & beautiful offerings,
the Bibles Portraits & numerous other points of
interest. The beggars at the gate were [[?]] [[?]]
in their demands. H. & I wrote letters after dinner.
Sat 30.6.17. Early tea 6 a.m. went out for rickshaw
ride before breakfast were driven round and above
Kandy lake - beautiful views. Took several snaps
of each others in rickshaws. Did some shopping - &
got cheated! After breakfast were driven in rickshaws
to Paradeniya Gardens - they are wonderful - the
tropic vegetation at its best. Crowds of bats flying
around & screaming discordantly - settling on me
folded up, like huge black flowers. It rained several
times - heavy rains, making atmosphere
hotter than ever. Took more snaps. Avenue of
cabbage palms very fine: huge creepers and brilliant
flowers. Everywhere so green. Drove to Paradeniya
Station caught special train 12.10 Passed fully
built Cingalese homes, European owned bungalows,
low built dirty looking native huts, & numerous
shops of all kinds while in rickshaw. Natives
most curious about us all. Arrived at
Colombo Fort 3.30 p.m. went to G.F.H. by tram
& rickshaw - had afternoon tea there & subsequently
shopped - bought stockings after much bargaining
- these natives are awful. They are one larger
[[beg?]]. am dog tired tonight. There is a House Ball
on - got up for the sister but Matron wouldn't let
any of us dance - result much dissatisfaction. It
is ones idea of a tropical ball - palms & punkahs
& wide halls - shaded lights and coolly dressed
women - innumerable couples sitting out &
innumerable natives ministering unto their
needs & innumerable drinks.
Sunday 1.7.17. H. & I slept late - the others went
motoring but we weren't dressed &
breakfasted in time. Read & wrote letters
& loafed & looked on. Intended to go to Church but found
Church was at 9.30 a.m. & 5.30 p.m. I shopped after lunch
- the native shops appear to be all open on Sundays.
Bought some moonstones & moonstone studs for Sista.
The shop men were very good to us & gave us a card
of introduction to their Shop in Suez. Returned to
boat 4 p.m. Same old place. Wrote letters.
Got a wire from B. Slept well.
Monday. Left Colombo 11.45 a.m. It is a
beautiful harbour. We are all dead
tired after 3 days on Shore. 

 Had a life belt drill. Were instructed to be very
careful of sunstroke. Evenings very much longer.
Tuesday. Sick all day! Slept & read & did nothing
else. M. down also - very miserable
crowd we are. Rumour that we are picking
up the Mongolia crew at Bombay - all our dark
crew go off. More rumours as to our destination

but nobody knows where we are going as yet.

Wednesday More of us down today - we are

reported to have a "touch of sun", too

much shore, I think, xxxx. Bombay police

notices avert danger of travelling. Strapped our coats

up c̄ paybook & other necessities onto life belt.

Got the deck steward going on the submarine question.

Bombay tomorrow night. Into shallow water now.

Thursday. Crept slowly up coast & back and 

into Bombay 7p.m. - Very fine glimpses

of harbour - full moon over hills on one side -

hospital ships & shores with lights - contrast to

Colombo - on the other. The usual sweating coolies -

more poorly clad than those of Colombo & far less of

beggars - the usual launches c̄ the usual gangway excitement

 - embarking & disembarking & officials. Passports

examined here thoroughly. Carried our life belts on us

everywhere today. The water xxx is brown.

Friday.  A day to remember.  Went ashore by launch.
8.30 a.m. H., M., S. & I & William went through city to

GPO. [[Whiteaway?]] Laidlaws Cooks & money changers

(who was honest. & afterward to the Hotel Majestic. Had

tea here & later tonight p.c.'s at the hotel & the others went

adventuring & I went by garry to Wilson College. A most

beautiful night - by parklands & mud brick houses -

by sea and through native streets - about 3 miles altogether
from Hotel Majestic. Wilson College very large building -

separate from University - facing sea shore. xxx Mrs Douglas

met me - a charming Scotxxwoman, who lives at the Mission

House (-connected c̄ the College) c̄ her husband and small son.

She was just great - I sat c̄ her in her delightful sitting room till

B was free from his classes & had arranged for someone else to

take them. Went exploring College c̄ B - saw over chemical labs. -

& met Professor Chen. Took taxi up Malabar Hill & all over coast -

glorious views - green trees with here and there a xxxxx splash

of crimson - bronze where a flame tree showed through the green. All

vegetation very luxurious & the views of bay & city superb -

wide panoramic scenic glories. Went through Parsee quarters

& down avenued streets c̄ the branches of the trees inter [[xxxx?]] &

creating "speckled" shade. Saw mosques & temple & numerous

bullock carts. The streets of Bombay xxx very muddy

& dusty, near the wharf especially, rubbish is strewn

carelessly abroad - very different from Colombo's well ordered

city streets. It is the rainy season now. The natives
seem much more selfrespecting here and don't appear to

beg half as much as the Ceylon natives did - but they

are dirty looking chaps. Here the drivers of the bullock

carts deck the heads of their beasts up & paint their

horns red - there seem to be more carts here than

at Colombo, the bullocks have wide horns & aren't

apparently so buffalo. Crowds of students at the

College - girls picturesque c̄ their long veil-like

garments over shoulders - many "degrees" - tall very

intelligent, B. says, & easy to teach. Boys are married

early - only small percentage are single, & only small

percentage are Christian. Had tiffin c̄ B. - waited on silently

& expertly by the native boy - whose name is unspellable.

Delightful tiffin & all honour to the initiative of their

faithful one. Subsequently met by Dr. Scott & Mr Douglas,

and drove by taxi through city to docks where B took

several snaps (& one later of "us" & the launch

moving off) We waited 1 hour 20 minutes for the health doctor

who passed us through very casual like! Left shore for

boat 4.30 p.m. -. (about) & didn't rejoice at seeing the old

boat again. Bombay much more interesting than Colombo

more scope and more - the city itself of interesting 

historic value. Very hot here - though cloudy. New

crew tonight - white stewards from Mongolia - very

few natives. Wrote p.cards & managed to get them xxx

started on the way to the post. The piano pressed into

service again - the usual forlorn ditties - very disturbing

these days! Horwood & I did a great deal of washing

some in the bathroom since we won't be able much

later on - and ate (c̄ soapy hands but much relish

nevertheless!) the chocolates from today's memorable tiffin.

Slept up on deck next S. & watched for a long time

the lights on the distant shore & the well-lit silent

hospital ship ahead

Saturday. Sailed 8.45 a.m. - life belts c̄ us everywhere
today - till 12 midnight. Explored all

emergency ladders (c̄ the aid of chief steward). Hearing all xxx^sorts

of details concerning the Mongolia - they say the nurses were just

great. Were accompanied by a destroyer some distance - at

night saw two boats, going towards Bombay - dimly lit.

All of us a trifle pensive - the usual post-shore reaction

Sunday. July 8th Out - deep water again, refreshingly blue.

Bishop of Borneo presided - he was very fine & chose his

hymns  c̄ apparent intuitive knowledge of our inclinations.

Rough tonight - & cool. My lily unfolding bud after bud.

Monday . 9th. Boat pitched all day - good many of 

us take no interest in the salon group. Cool day

hardly any sun - much spray & wind.

Tues. 10th. Cool day - rough: and not specially enjoyable
Wed. 11th. Calmer day - still cool. M. still very sick

others chirpy. Collection for Mongolia people - N.S.

raised about £80, poor beggars, from what we

hear they need it all. There are rumours that we
don't get to Aden till Sat. The tree units are distinguished
by the following more or less appropriate

titles. No. I (Vic.) Salvation Army - No. 2.

(N.S.W.) Social Successes - no 3. (Composite unit

Tas, W.A. & SA.) The Larrakins! We are

firm in our contention that we'd rather be wowsers

than Larrakins! The stars are deserting us - our

Southern Cross has dipped - & new stars were in 

the sky tonight. Scorpio, Arcturus still visible.

Thurs. 12th. A month today since we departed. Seems

like two or three. Warmer day
Thurs. Still rough at times. Hot day.

Friday. Passed rocky coast Aden - in the p.m. -

Crept slowly into bay & anchored at about 6pm

opposite Prince's wharf. Great gaunt barren rocks

everywhere - no vegetation whatever. The usual clamoring

native boatmen - the usual boats. The natives are

more mixed - some are apparently negroes c̄ curly

heads & "bossy" foreheads & protruding teeth & thick 

lips. No lights high up at night. Only a line

greatly below one of hills. Very warm. Ashore in

a.m. tomorrow. News of day came aboard 1 rupee a copy.

Sat. 14th. Aug. Went ashore 8.30 a.m. by ferry.

Got taxi after some delay - H., M,

& I drove up to The Wells - & visited P.O. & shops.

Wells most interesting - huge stone cavities - only

one of which contained water apparently good enough for

use & coolies were drawing it up c̄ pottery jars

chanting the while. There is a garden there - c̄

a wattle tree & peppermint amongst many others,

all stunted looking. Wells discovered 1854 by

an English officer - origin not known - but they are

supposed to be "Solomons" & are known to be

of a date B.C. There is a small well 200

feet deep - the guide dropped stones down, &

it gave us the creeps to hear them drop seconds

afterwards. xxxx Banyan trees & all round are

the forts - forts round hills - long lines of them

Passed tunnels. P.O. very queer indeed -

the patrons stands outside & are attended to through

bars. Drove through native bazaars, past natives

huts - very dirty careless, - uncivilized looking

crew! Numbers of natives - arabs some - 

lying about on stretchers in open air. Passed

an open air school - on sidewalk. Passed

several donkeys ridden by ?Arabs - really

Biblical. Number of camel carts - slow, sad all

trip, lashed ill fed & ill treated but very patient withal.

Saw one baby camel! Numerous cows - passed a

milking herd, and some wee calves. Passed flocks

of goats & isolated specimens everywhere - native quarters

apparently they use goats' milk here. Few mules, very

few - & horses c̄ garries - dreadfully thin looking brutes.

The motors are a trifle ramshackle - I think we had a Ford - 

the drivers are as good - & as reckless - as our

Colombo friends. They race down xxx hills, turn corners

with a swing that gets a little disconcerting at times, &

pass other vehicles & make speedy detours - if the road

doesn't allow sufficient space for both c̄ great suddenness

& dash. But they drive well & handle their cars c̄ the

ease of an expert - & charp, subsequently, c̄ a

like absence of amateurishness. Passed camel team,

carting bundles of food & green stuff - from their

oasis - presumably - 14 miles away. The drivers walk

beside them & the whole procession creeps slowly along.

Water carts are drawn by camels or oxen. It rained 5

months ago. Indian money is taken here - or English,

they don't appear to mind which. In India they'll take

no English money - except gold -in Colombo they take

either but prefer Ceylon - but this is more convenient

than either. Went shopping - the shops contain a bit

of everything, apparently. The one we patronised

sold us boiled sweets (Pascalls at 10'), biscuits

cordials, scent, fans, haberdashery, Thermos flasks,

electric torches, wristlet watch straps, & numerous

other lines at the moment forgotten, were represented 

well. They were very polite & obliging & charged less

than we expected for most things. We are not allowed

to buy postcards here. We took iced lemon ashore in

our thermos flasks & we were glad of it! The

whole place gives one an idea of Eastern conditions,

not at their best - The heat - the baking and unwinking
sun - whose xxx cloud shadowed condition
is worse than his open countenance -

the dust, the smells, the dirty streets c̄ dirty natives

in dirty clothes swatting here & there, smoking

jabbering & selling men's mixtures of alleged edibility,
- some were lying on the ground or on stretchers asleep - at
the hour of 9 a.m. - most of them were hatless, some 
some turbaned - our chauffeur sported a nice cap & once-white

crochet. Passed the cemeteries - European, Jewish, Indian
xxx - the last not fenced & the graves, or tombstones - we 

weren't certain which they were - were scattered about

on open piece of ground. Passed gaol, barracks, depot

of Meclan. Transport Coy, military offices, & stores,

most of the buildings well constructed & solid, Passed this

"gate of Aden" xa high arch bridge a narrow passage

of great high rocky walls. The Gate of the port is
nearer & the wall of great thickness. The bay looks 

so pretty as we went up the hills - numbers of fishing

boats & the usual picturesque triangular sails &

few larger boats beyond, the sea a calm blue unrippled. 
We bought nothing ashore in the way of refreshments 
being wary these days. Returned to ship about

11 a.m. & were cheated by boatmen who at first refused

to give us change & finally gave us 10 cent pieces (Ceylon)

which are no use here at all. Washed in the

afternoon - a huge xxxxxxxx dose - & had a 

continual vapour bath ("skin acting freely") meanwhile

I don't remember ever being so hot before - Horwood says

I am an eyesore in hot weather, & remind her most 

unpleasantly of the Ceylon 'rickshaw' men - in that these

beads of  "honest sweat" " do not content themselves c̄

"standing out" on my noble brow as they are xxxx most

to do in the best circles. Packed some & growled some,

& finally went on deck after the boat had moved off

- about 4 p.m. Intensely hot night -  & air-less.

Scott down - ? a sun touch. We are getting off at

Suez & going to Alexandria by train, instead of going

through the canal - for there is a heavy toll per head.

Rumours that 100 of us are being left in Egypt -

we are wondering which unit will be chosen or if

some out of each unit will be bidden to "fall out". - 

ah me! It's an uncertain life! We are all very tired

tonight.

Sunday. 15th Last night was a perfect snorter. Woke several
times to see a light on the port side of us & a

boat (? cause & ? quality). Kept parallel with us for 

a long time. Tea served in the saloon bar, & very

welcome. The water is perfectly calm. Remarkable

in its smooth oiliness. Some of the girls xxx ^went through

tunnels in Aden yesterday & went far enough to

see the smoke of the firing line - also saw some

Turkish prisoners & xxx xxx some wounded returning

in Red Cross wagons. The hospital in Aden is, we

hear, staffed c̄ French nurses. A European helped

us c̄ our taxi troubles - he was one of our typical 

tropical Europeans of the class that doesn't keep far

from the alcoholic friend - pale, flabby, fat, incapable

of quick thought. It is an awful place - one can't

wonder that they xxx - find it so hard to keep sober.

Very hot all day - passed few small islands on

African side this a.m. - rocky little inhospitable

islands - xxx sharks here - crowds of them - we

could see fins poking out above the water as

they move leisurely around. Porpoises by the score -

jolly little rollicking chaps. "Twelve Apostles" 

on Arabian side this afternoon - islands of

various sizes, all rocky & bare - fairly close

to one another. We are going very slowly - to

India except [[?]] of [[Screw?]]. Melville  & I had a long yap

c̄ the "Darling Child" who is indeed a pure delight. I gave

him the home address & Dad's in case he ever again

ventures that way. Took the deck steward's photo - he is

another source of eternal merriment. Church on deck

tonight - our first military service - Padre officiated,

& it was good. Melv. & Temp. & I sat on cushions on

the deck, the chair supply running out. Temp. & me

then supped & chattered amicably & gossiped s̄ 

malice until after lights out. A stifling night.

Monday. 16th. Today has been a trifle cooler. The

men had sports on the deck this p.m. -

It was jolly decent of them to hold them on such

a dreadful day. We enjoyed the tug of war &

the racing c̄ tied feet but the pillow fight on a 

greased pole seemed unfairly distributed somehow

the man at the starboard end invariably fell off

first!  & the "cock fighting" we hated. More rumours

abroad concerning all things - wish some would

hasten & materialise. Another stifling night c̄ very

little sleep about.

Tuesday Had a tea party & spent a.m. pooring over

French dic. & composing menus & invitations.

We are supposed to be in the Gulf of Suez now.

Took photos. of N. H M. on deck & Rose took one

of us all. We are all going about waving

£1 notes about & pleading for silver for tips,

but no one can oblige us! We'll be ruined!

Photos of the pyjama parade this a.m.

Wed. Suez tomorrow. Cooler day. Took several

photos. M. & I had many adventures. Took the

S.M. & N.C. & the Capt.- in his very early morning

garb - also our friend the D.S. Temp's supper party

tonight - Melville & I sleep in music room -
Auld Lang Syne tonight

Much packing today & many rumours.

Thurs 19.7.17 Waked early - 4.40 a.m. & sat at

the window looking out at the hills of Suez, the canal entrance,

the wee boats around, the glorious tints of sky & sea.

We were anchored at about 5.30. The most wonderful skies - 

the tints of the hills! Pale blues, pale pinks, delicate

mauves, shades of gold & grey. The hills on the 

left - the canal on the right, ahead Suez. It may be

the dirtiest place on earth- they say it is, but oh, it's

lovely! Early breakfast (6.30!) more packing, many 

farewells. We went off in launches, after 8 a.m. - we got the 

third launch after indulging in a final lemonade. The boat

cheered & we cheered & we were really sorry to leave it

all, although I haven't forgotten the bad days one jot.

Many Imperial soldiers about - on the ship, looking after

the mails, superintending the working of the launch,

helping us to shore. The hospital train was

waiting for us at Suez, a long corridor train, c̄ its

roof painted white, c̄ & a red crescent - the sign the
Turkish recognise for a red Cross painted on it.

The train is staffed by 2 R.A.M.C. sisters (Austⁿ) &

many orderlies c̄ cheerful faces & English voices.

They were jolly good to us. We had expected a 

rotten trip & they made it most cheerful - they

brought us round enamel mugs & we had iced lemonade &

biscuits until further notice - later lunch arrived - cold beef

& chicken served on enamel plates - delicious stewed pear

- for tea we congregated near the cook house & ate huge 

portions of bread & butter & jam. The day after leaving Suez

station led first through town quarters - native

quarters & fields of waving corn, & then the desert - 

miles of dazzling white glaring sand. A few huts &

tents of past camps -  we saw miles of native

quarters - so dirty as to be on occasion oderous
- mosques, temples ^pyramids buildings of all

descriptions, cemeteries. The hens & goats live on

the roofs here! We stayed an hour at Cairo - &

the 3rd unit stayed there Mr. White. Crossed the

[[xx]] hill subsequently. Passed thro' Zagazig,

Tanta, Damanhour. Many of the smaller stations have

no name at all - have been removed apparently.

Egyptians everywhere, they sleep anywhere at all

attitudes. We saw them riding their mules & donkeys

along. Kicking their flanks continually. The women

are veiled as a rule, & carry heavy weights

great [[?]] & baskets & bundles on their heads.

Date palms  - very dainty against the sky. The

sunset a glory - pale golds & purples, the sun

setting much more quickly (apparently) than in 

Australia & darkness falling swiftly. There was a

noticeable drop in temperature at sunset & cool

breeze. We arrived at Alexandria about 7.30 & were

driven to our various hotels in motor ambulances,

(R.A.M.C.). Many went to Khedivial - many to the

Majestic, our party of 9 xxxx came to the Savoy

c̄ 18 others. A good long drive from the station, Very

nice hotel - delightful bedrooms - M. & I share

a room - Horwood is next door. Had dinner

later in dining hall lighted c̄ lamplike huge

moonstones - French windows open - skylights

painted blue, crowds of wee birds fluttering about

even at that late hour, chirping away. Palms

& native attendants - picturesque combination

indeed! We retired early - & slept well.

Friday 20.7.17 The sun streamed into our room

 - this early a.m. - tonight we'll shut the shutters,

It was hot. Breakfast at 8.30 - delightful Frenchy

breakfast - fresh butter in queer little flat flakes,

rolls - omelets. All is French here - they speak French.

The papers are more than half French - the femme

de chambre speaks very little English , the manager,

waiters, office attendant - everyone talks fluent 

French & stilted English. Number of English officers

about, on leave. One of them talked to us in the writing

room - showed us snapshots of the lines, interpreted

our money for us - It's a bit bamboozling at first

& was altogether entertaining. He told us later of their

fighting - things are very much worse than we in

Australia [[had known?]]. This man - one Lieut[[Turk?]] -

is having his second leave in xx goodness knows

how many many months of desert. After lunch he

asked us to go a bathing - we declined but were

persuaded to join in an ice - hunt. xx M.

H. & I were escorted off at 3pm. by N & T.