Letters from Wilfred Evans to his family, 1918 - Part 3
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Es. Salt Letter.
7.5.18
My dear mother,
I don't quite know how many days it is
since I last wrote as we have had a very busy & exciting
time during the intervening period. By the way, a mail arrived
yesterday & I received three very welcome letters from you
- I must get hold of them before I post this & see what
there is to reply to. We started off a few days ago on
an expedition away up into the hills which you will
doubtless have read of before this to Es Salt. Starting
off one evening we marched nearly all night marching
up along the valley of the Jordan & next morning
attacked the foothills of the tremendous range of
hills on the other side which I have formerly described
to you at a spot which was only lightly held by
Turks with the object of getting round to the flank
& rear of the town. The resistance in the foothills
was overcome fairly easily & towards evening we
set out up a goat track for Es Salt. Such a
march I have never done before or since & never
wish to do again. We had to ascend 4000
feet above the valley of the Jordan over a track
which is indescribable. It is impossible to ride
up so we had to dismount & lead our horses
& it is covered with sharp scraggy rocks
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which impede progress terribly & over which the
poor old horses stumbled terribly. In places the
edges of the track drop precipitously for hundreds
of feet. The experience was a veritable nightmare,
as darkness came on before we had gone very far &
we stumbled on up huge never ending hills in the
darkness for hours. At one period my groom & I were
separated from the column in front which had
vanished in the darkness & had no one in
rear & we went along the ill marked track
for some time & then thought that possibly we
had missed our way & had better wait till
some of the others overtook us. It was rather
a horrid experience as we were seated in a gully
almost alone in the darkness surrounded by
the huge hills & not knowing whether we were
near the Turkish lines or some of the native
villages which are inhabited in that part by
unscrupulous & generally armed people.
We waited for a few minutes & then decided that we had
better try & retrace our steps till we met some of
our folk in case we were wrong, so we went back a
couple of miles & to our great relief met a Regiment
halted on the track. So we waited & came along
with them. Eventually we halted for the night &
picketed the horses. It was very cold in the hills
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& I had only a thin macintosh on the saddle but
managed to snatch an hour or twos slumber as we
had none the previous night. Next morning we were
up early & pushed into Es Salt which had been taken
by the Brigade I once belonged to x the previous night
in a very dashing way, They had charged the
defenders on the hill tops above the town & then galloped
into the streets & bagged about 300 prisoners.
How their horses kept their feet I don't know as it
is a terribly steep rocky descent into the town.
Col Dixon & I entered together & made our way to
the Turkish hospital which was as usual full of
sick & wounded & in charge of a Syrian doctor named
Shediac who had been left behind at his own request
as he was very anxious to escape to us as he had
been educated in America & come back to Beirut
just a year or two before the war & when war broke
out had been impressed by the Turks into service.
He spoke English well & was of great assistance to
us. We decided to take over the old Turkish headquarters
next door as our hospital, from whence Gemel
Pasha had only escaped a few minutes before
our arrival. There were some beautiful chairs
carpets & tables there & the place was fairly
clean & in good order. We next went to headquarters
& arranged for necessary guards over hospital & for permission
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to use food supplies Etc which were in the town,
& sent down one of the Ambulances to form apla receiving place there for wounded. I went
in to look after this & Col Dixon returned to
our own headquarters. I found the stairs which
led up to the Turkish headquarters very steep for
carrying up wounded so cast round for a
suitable spot on street level & finally located
one near by which had been used as a grain
store. At the back was an R C church containing
large quantities of grain. We cleaned the
place up & started our hospital, & soon
wounded began to arrive. I began a search
round the town for transport for wounded, as we
had been unable to bring any wheeled vehicles up
with us & only few camels had been able to
struggle up, so that we were rather stumped. I
discovered a Turkish motor Ambulance in working
order & impressed a German motor driver from
among the prisoners to drive it under a guard.
It had sufficient petrol in the tank to run
it for a while & I sent it off down the main
road to evacuate wounded into the town
from where the Brigades were fighting.
I had better draw a little sketch to show
you how there happened to be a main road
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at that point. It was like this
We went up the goat track marked on the left
as the main metalled road on the right was
strongly held by Turks & so we cut in on to
their rear but in doing so could bring no
wheeled vehicles with us. They had motor transport
running from Amman to Es Salt & down to the
Jordan however & Amman is on their railway
to the Hedjaz. So when we reached Es Salt
I wanted some wheeled vehicles to run up
the road to Amman & also along the other way
to bring in wounded to Es Salt.
So we got the motor Ambulance going & I also found
several Turkish wagons & harness for them which
we attached to some of our own pack horses &
used them for the job. Later on I got a touring
car going too & was working on some motor lorries
which they had left behind to get them in
working order.
Food was the next question as we could hardly
bring up supplies along the road which we
had come & the Turks held the main road
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so through the agency of the Syrian doctor
I got hold of the chief town baker &
arranged for him to start baking bread
I found however that we had only two bags
of flour ground so that the next problem was
to get a mill working to grind the wheat into flour.
Our engineers helped me & we obtained quite a lot of
benzene in the town by searching through the houses of
the natives who had plundered what had been left
behind by the Turks. We succeeded in getting the mill
going & with the aid of a Turkish wagon & a couple
of our horses conveyed flour grain to it & wood to
flour from the mill to the bakers. So we soon had
an excellent supply of bread for ourselves & the
Turkish wounded & I requisitioned some cows
from the inhabitants for fresh meat, giving
them receipts in exchange. These were slaughtered
by some of the Turkish hospital orderlies.
We also used some Turkish wagons as transport
for wounded using our own horses as means of
traction.
Wounded began to arrive soon after our arrival in
the town some by camel cacolets which had
been got up the hills with great difficulty
& some on our captured Ambulance & wagon &
soon the hospital was very busy. I took up
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my quarters for the two nights we spent in Es Salt in
the room of the chief Turkish doctor to Gemel Pasha
who had bolted. So I had a four poster
bedstead, wardrobe with looking glass & all complete.
The Turks shelled the town rather heavily on two
or three occasions & killed & wounded some of
the inhabitants & destroyed some houses. Some of
the inhabitants were Christian & there were two Christian
churches one Roman Catholic & one Protestant & the
R C church had some of the most beautiful vestments
in it that I have ever seen. We sent The Turks
ill treated the inhabitants very much & killed a lot of
them not after our last raid to that place so they
were very frightened indeed. We sent away from time
to time all the men who were fit to ride, on thei riding
horses sent from the Brigades as that was the only means
at our disposal along the precipitous goat track
we had come. During this time the Turks were
making frequent attacks on us as we were holding
a long thin line, but our fellows fought magnificently
& repelled them all along the line, outnumbered as
they were, & in one case bagged an extra 300
prisoners in addition to the 300 they had at first
taken. These prisoners were also sent back straight
away to get them out of the way. On the third
day after our entry I received orders to send away
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every case I possibly could by means of riding horses
which were being sent down & all the cacolet camels. I
thought at the time that we would surely have to leave
30 or 40 behind as we only had accommodation on camels
for a few lying cases, & we had orders to get every
possible case away & then come ourselves. We decided
that if we had to leave anyone to leave also 1 NCO &
2 men to look after them and when the Turks took
over. Our position at that spot was quite
untenable for long as we were almost surrounded
by Turks & had a very good chance of going to
Constantinople. You see we had gone along one very
narrow track which was our only connection back
with our own people & which was being kept open
by a very thin line of our folk, & in addition just
where this band left the hills the Turks had
driven in a very strong attack & gone within
an ace of cutting off the exit in which case
we were bottled & bound for Turkey land. So
the heads evidently thought it time to get out.
The riding horses & camels arrived & we loaded
them as rapidly as we could & in the end found
that we were able to get all our wounded on
board save two dying cases who could not
survive long & these were left, & we brought
away all the Ambulance personnel leaving
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none behind though one corporal badly wanted to
stay with the two dying fellows, but we would
not permit him as they were at the time
practically unconscious. Col Dixon & I stayed
until we saw the last man away & then guided
our convoy out of the town by a devious narrow
steep path. I certainly never thought that we would
get the camels & their wounded safely down the
precipitous rocky hills which lay between us & the
Jordan. I expected before leaving the town to be
attacked by some of the Bedouin inhabitants but
all went well until we got on to the hills outside
the town when they opened fire on our convoy from
the hill sides around. They hit one of the
Ambulance fellows in the knee & wounded three
horses but all continued their slow way onwards.
One camel frightened by the firing fell over a precipice
with its two wounded but they were eventually
rescued and brought on The convoy marvellous to
relate reached the plain without another mishap
but how those camels did it I can't imagine &
I'll take my off my hat to a camel in future
The contrast on the plain from the fresh air of
the hills was tremendous as on the hills the air
was fresh & clear & cool, the country green &
beautiful, but when we descended into the
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Jordan valley the heavy stagnant hot air
& dried up country was a very unpleasant contrast
& since then it has grown steadily hotter & yesterday
reached 110o, & that degree of temperature when
one's protection is a small bivouac made of water
proof sheet is no joke. The dust in the valley is
beyond all description as the traffic of men & horses
churns everything to a fine powder which blows
in huge clouds, obscuring everything. It was very
windy today & that has brought an agreeably
cool change into the atmosphere so that we are
very pleased tonight. The Syrian doctor came
back with us & is now safely away from the
Turks. No more news now my dear so will
close with best of love & hugs from
Your loving son,
Wilf.
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