Major Henry Charles David Marshall - Wallet 1 - Booklet 2 - Part 1

Vx34 MAJOR H. C D. MARSHALL

A.I.F.

3317

11

Nr. 4

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the idea being to give them cover from splinters from bombs

and bullets whilst they were asleep. At the same time a

perimeter defence was laid out. That is a defence system

all the way round the camp including all the Brigade

area was reconnoitred and then dug. This all took some

time and the men felt that they only come to Palestine

to shift dirt. Apart from the necessity known to the powers

that be it was very good training and soon made the

men very fit after the voyage. As soon as the trench system

was finished we had to man it by day and night and 

all ammunition was issued, automatic weapons were placed

on a war footing and magasines and belts for these last

[[feled?]]. It was a job not liked by the troops and they hated

the monotony of sitting in trenches in the hot sun looking

and waiting for something to happen. There was one amusing

instance however. Keith Walker had a machine gun

post on our right - situated amongst some old Turkish 

trench systems. I had a look at it one day and there

is no doubt that the Turk last war knew how to site

defensive positions.  This particular one came in very 

handy for our use. This story is secondhand as at

the time I was in Cairo. He sent in a message to 

Battalion that the Wogs were massing on his front. We

were of course not trusting Arabs. Guinns Company was

just leaving on a job and was hurriedly recalled

to stand by whilst all preparations were made for all

events. Finally a message carried from Walker that

everything was under control - it was only a Wog

wedding going on in front of him. Life resumed its

normal course. I shall probably tell you again

and again darling that there is no proper sequence

in my story. As things pop into my mind I shall

write about them. We had many warnings about

the country & its inhabitants and animals and 

fruits. Jackals are plentiful and so are dogs.

In Palestine the bite of a Jackal or a dog nearly

always develops into Hydrophobia or Rabies so

that no dog was allowed in the Camp or is stay anywhere

near. As soon as a dog appeared you heaved a rock at 

it for the bite of an infected dog and particularly an

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infected jackal passes on the disease to both dog and 

human. The jackals were absolutely full of it and as

they roamed wild and free and fought with the native

village dogs it was 10 to 1 that any dog had the virus

which gradually killed it. There was one tale - how

true I don't know that the Black Watch had lost four

men (before out arrival) caused by a jackal attacking

them whilst asleep and savaging them. Hydrophobia 

is not now incurable but it is a particularly long and

painful cure. George Silk, a young official news 

photographer who came over on our boat and who had

all sorts of painful accidents was bitten in Palestine

after we left and recovered after a long treatment. He

also broke ribs, arms and had pneumonia during

his visit! By the way our camouflage extended to our

permanent buildings and roads. Every surface had

to be covered with sand and ochre and it got very

difficult with a large tin garage and the accompanying

car park. The macadam roads also did not take 

kindly is the job. The jerboas or rats which hopped

around like kangaroos were alright but snakes

and scorpions had to be handled with care. There

were few around our camp site fortunately and

when seen got short shrift from our country bred

troops who used a bayonet or boot to kill them.

In fact we had some difficulty getting specimens

for the medical people as our lads use to smash

their heads to pulp to make sure. There were some 

very venomous snakes but we had no casualties

from this source. To get back to our warnings.

Because of the mode of life of the country it was

unsafe to eat any garden produce such as

grapes - oranges - grapefruit - water melons etc

unless they had been washed in a solution of

permanganate of potash. Both Arabs and Jews to a lesser 

extent and in fact every Continental country are

very much behind us in ideas of sanitation. Anywhere

grape vines - plants - the road is alright for an

Arab and I sometimes think it was part of their relying

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never to cover their excreta. You had to be careful where you

lay down particularly in the dark. As I have told you

before the Arab and the Jew would pinch anything so we

closed our camp to them and as the main Road went

alongside we shooed them on. If they got off the 

main road they got booted onto it again and sent

on their way in double quick time. Ramsay as the

Intelligence Officer was an absolute terror and with

his large boots — overbearing manner and louder voice

soon put the fear of God into visitors. He made it very

easy for the rest of us — he had an eagle eye for the

flutter of native dress and we used to grin when his

voice was heard roaring around the camp. Apart from

the usual guard we had a system of prowlers at

night. Pairs of men travelled around the camp on

no set beat particularly at night. Another warning

was not to drink water from native wells until it had

been boiled. Dysentery was the answer to eating untreated

fruit and Bilharzia from drinking the water. All these

wells are hundreds of years old and have slime, bodies

no doubt human and definitely animal in them.

I have seen Arab buckets coming up from a village

well — a leather bucket made of a sheep skin and 

absolutely green. I am not going to mince matters at

times my dear so that some observations and

remarks will be a bit grim. Bilharzia is a little

worm which gets into the intestines either through

the skin or mouth and the first symptom is passing

blood. It has started eating. It is not incurable

if taken early. One of my lads got it through

bathing in the Jordan River. A week after we arrived

was Empire Day so we decided on a celebration. Alan

Bamford had a portable wireless set which was

a great boon. We had a bottle of gin from the

boat, a bottle of Beenleigh Rum Mick had brought

from Australia and a bottle of whiskey. We all

got into Theos tent and talked and drank the

lot whilst waiting for the Kings speech. If you

remember it was a very moving speech — very 

sincere and expressed the Empires determination

when it had finished and the played the National

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Anthem we all rose and stood solemnly to attention

and really meant it. I think you have seen Theo's

picture of the party taken by the light of two hurricane

lanterns. It was quite a good effort particularly of the

empty Gin and Rum bottles which came out perfectly.

Theo and Mick had the large EPIP tents and Company

Commanders a bell tent to themselves near the mess and

Showers. The subalterns and Coy 2 i/c shared EPIP in

the lines — four to a tent. Marks and I very early had to 

make a visit to Tel Aviv to the Bank and draw some

money from the Battalions Letter of Credit. I shall make

further mention of it later. I did not like it. Soon after

we arrived we found a system in force of letting out the

use of the native shops to a contractor. He paid the Army

so much and a percentage of his profits. Before we arrived

we found that Division had let our Bn. area to someone

named Hanna Bishirat. This was usual practice and

he in turn sublet the shops — we had a banker, tailor, 

fancy goods including photographic supplies who paid him

an extortionate price for their stand and made a loss.

The troops shaved themselves mostly after trying the

experience of the natives, used hairdressers amongst the

troops and in consequence we had a succession of

new barbers who all paid Bishirat his price and

lost money. The tailor got some and when the 

troops found the fancy goods merchant was profiteering

in our endeavour to cover his losses they left him

severely alone. All natives within the camp area had

to have a pass after they had been examined by a 

central authority and I think vouched for by the

Palestine Police. We however had the last say and

could kick them out at a moments notice for any

infringement of orders. Ramsay was pretty good

at it and was cordially hated and feared. When

he went sick the Wogs had a holiday. When we

were first discussing the contract Hanna Bishirat

called on Theo. He was the most unmitigated

scoundrel - could speak fair English and was

so smooth and soapy that he defeated his own

purpose with us. He claimed that he was one of T.E 

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Lawrence's trusted assistants in his famous campaign

last war and brought photos of himself and Lawrence to

prove it. He gave us each a selection. Probably he was but

I could never conceive Lawrence trusting him. He was the

greatest rogue and thief I ever imagined but he was very

wealthy and conned money out of his unfortunate 

lessees — whether Jew or Arab. He gave us all sorts of

pleasures? — offered his very fine car for our use at

weekends — offered to take us to Jerusalem or Jaffa and

show us the life of the city. Had we gone we would

have been in his power and he could have dictated

the running of the contract away from the printed

clauses. None of us fell into that trap. He was a very

fine looking hawk faced Arab and moved and acted

in the dignified manner of books. But he would have

cut your throat as soon as not and crawled all over

you before doing it. Smarmy. The native hairdresser goes

to no amount of trouble and finesse in shaving or cutting

hair and really gives the impression of being scrupulously

clean but it is only on the surface. The Arab hairdresser

used a razor in haircutting a great deal more than clippers.

And all bowed and scraped in a way calculated to make

me feel ill. In all shops they had officers and a

troops price. Naturally dearer for officers but they usually

turned on coffee to curry favor. After two months we were

able to sack Hanna and had to hold back some of his

property until he paid us profit percentage. It took

quite awhile. We then cut out the main contractor and

formed leases direct with the shopkeepers to the benefit

of all concerned. One of these was the son in law of a

friend of Germans and I shall tell you more about him

in another place. The cleaning of sanitary arrangements

latrines and grease traps was another main contract

to a native who employed more natives to do the job.

They proved a nuisance for awhile but as soon as

we threatened to cancel the contract the big boss came

to heel and saw us and produced a fair result to

our satisfaction. Latrines were duplicated — one for

native who will not use the type of seat we have. They

squat. In any case they were not allowed into ours.

I think I might as well describe the Arab people here. They

are to our thinking the dirtiest people we have met.

They live in almost airless mud huts in villages

the houses close together in very narrow streets and they

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throw offal, rubbish, decayed food, excretion in fact

anything they have not use for anywhere — on the street

against walls and the places stink to high heaven. Their

ideas of sanitation are elementary and simple — the

nearest wall or flat space is the best. The young Arab boy

before approaching manhood wears a skull cap of black felt

rather like those close fitting knitted caps for women as

fashionable once. I don't know when or how he graduates

into wearing the black braid and flowing headdress.

He wears a shirt and a pair of breeches tight at the

knee and calf and then very full above with a

definite bag at his posterior. All Muslims wear

this type of trouser as it is their belief that the 

Prophet when he returns to earth will be reborn or

born of man not woman so they wear these loose

trousers with the definite bag to give him a

chance. They are all spare both and boy and

when grown to manhood mainly tall lean men

with his dark acquiline features and black hair

I have just asked the room most of whom have been

in Palestine whether they have ever seen a fat Arab

None of us can remember any. I have seen a few

swimming naked on the beaches and they have

beautiful figures. The women are all clothed neck

to knee and wear some sort of a headdress a cross

between a handkerchief and gypsy's headdress.

The practice of veiling seemed to be dying out around

our area but if you came to close some of them

drew this headdress across their faces. Mainly the 

older women and they really had something to

conceal. The women when young are usually

beautiful but soon lose their looks through

hardwork and childbearing I suppose. I dont

know if I am correct but an Arab woman looks

old after 22 or so. All wear ornaments — bracelets

earrings and necklaces and bright colors but

even if they do not veil they are exceedingly shy

or frightened if any one looks at them and usually

disappear into their houses or into a grove when

we marched through. They don't stop peering at

you from all sorts of cracks and half open doors

but it would be as much as an Arab woman's

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life to be caught smiling. The Arab guards his women

folk very carefully and accepts no excuses. The little

girls are the most beautiful when they are about six

to ten. They laugh and smile and beg and at that

age do not suffer from custom. They really have

the most delightful smiles and flashing teeth and

beg — how they can beg. From an early age all Arab

females carry water and large loads on their heads

and it is the poetry of motion to see them walking

with or without loads — barefooted of course but their

balance and carriage is perfection. That is until very

old and shapeless but still you can see training of

a lifetime. The transport of Palestine is by donkey and

camels and it is unbelievable the loads that these poor

creatures are sometimes forced to carry. Every one rides

a donkey sitting well back on the rump and carrying

a stick. Their heels drum into the donkeys side every

Yard — not hard but an rythm to the motion of the beast

and I verily believe the donkey would not move unless

he felt these kicks. I can't say I have seen any evidence

of deliberate cruelty to animals except these to our eyes

shocking loads. Probably the size and not the weight

is what sticks in our minds. The donkeys don't seem

to mind and continue on quite contentedly seemingly.

The camel is not so usual in Palestine as in Egypt but

is quite common and used on the roads for carrying.

whilst at Beit Jirja we had half a dozen horses in the   

Brigade for the use of the Field Office. I think I told you

in my letters I went out riding with Eric Barlhasche a 

couple of times and also on my own. We rode down to 

the sea a couple of times and saw Arabs fishing and

swim naked. It was there that I first felt the waters

of the Mediterranean. It is strange that no horse can

stand a camel or the smell of one and our rides were

enlivened in consequence. You had to watch your

horse passing a building. It may have had a camel

in it or stabled there and the smell will induce

him to jump from a walk into a gallop to get away.

Most Arab villages are surrounded by a hedge of

prickly pear which is highly prized in Palestine

as a protection and for its fruit. It is not a pest

and anyone breaking the leaves get a very

rigorous protest if seen. All their orchards and 

vineyards are surrounded by this as a hedge

and all lanes and roads usually are lined

with it. I mean small roads and lanes not

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the main macadam roads. I remember one ride fairly

vividly. We had gone out from camp — a groom and myself

and enjoyed a quiet ride through the vineyards. Some

miles from camp we had to pass an arab village and go

over their communal square which in this case was not within

the village. A caravan of camels was assembled there — about

20 or 30 and our horses could not be forced any nearer than

100 yards of them. It meant angling across and as soon as

the smell left them they were quite tractable. Later on we

were passing a mud hut at the side of a lane when both

horses just jumped into a gallop and went for about 100 

yards flat out before we could pull them up. There was

absolutely nothing in sight to frighten the so we could only

conclude that a camel was bedded down in this shed.

We continued on to the shore and had a swim. Coming

back when in a long narrow lane with high prickly

pear hedges we met a camel coming the other way. Then 

the trouble started. After about five minutes the orderly

got his horse through the gap of five feet between the

camel and the hedge but he was wearing spurs. As you

know I never have rowels in mine and this was one

time I wanted them. The horse and I fought it out for

nearly ten minutes — he was quite prepared to go but

jibbed at passing the camel. Anyway after I gave him

a really good kick he just bolted past as far from

the camel as he could. I was afraid that he would go

into the hedge but he just missed. In fact I picked a 

few spikes out of my breeches. He was determined to put

as great a distance as possible between himself and the 

Camel and as I did not mind the gallop we had

nearly a mile flat out when the heat and sand

stopped him. I enjoyed those rides. We of course started

the officers Mess as soon as possible. It was quite a big

building with the entrance facing and just off the  main

road. A small ante room with hat hooks. On each side 

were two big rooms and straight out the back the kitchen

The building were of cheap European timber - very

cheap pine and unlined with malthoid roofs. The

windows had fly screens but they were not very

efficient. The room on the right was used as a 

dining room with a head table for 5 and two

arms down each side. The other room on the left

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of the ante room was larger and was the bar and living

room. It was furnished with some of the usual tables of

military pattern and few gimcrack folding chairs, Mick

at this time was very funny and did not seem very anxious

to improve it but on a trip to Gaza I bought some grass

mats and when I went to Cairo brought back some travel

posters which made the place look a little more cheerful.

Right throughout our stay in Palestine the food was

terrible. The meat supplied was probably goat but we  

preferred to think of it as camel and it was tasteless and

usually uneatable. It may have been sheep but none of

us liked it. We were able to buy local eggs and they were

rather a gamble but the bacon was tinned and terribly 

fat. Our mess secretary was not a go getter and I forget

who was acting then but Wackery was given the job. He

produced extras bought from a shop in Gaza but they

only helped a bit. Mick I am afraid was rather inclined

to act as the perfect soldier and take the rough with the

smooth without trying to improve the rations. Theo I know

protested vehemently several times but even constant

changes of cooks did not seem to improve the rations

or provide any variety. As you know we took with us

some of the money made with the canteen in Australia

and together with the small profits received from the

canteen we bought grapefruit from some Jews although

the season was nearly over and they were issued twice

a week to the troops. Palestine grows wonderful citrus

fruits and part of our rations issue from the army was

bottled orange, lemon and grapefruit juice. These

were always welcome and I think we got one each

per week. Later on when grapes and watermelons

ripened we were able to buy these too. Early we

received Sydney turned butter but it was not a success

as most of it was rancid. The usual form of packing

was delivered later and proved good. The mess never

really functioned under Mick and was nothing out

of the ordinary - in fact bad. It is not boasting to say

that when Henry and I ran it it was much better

and worth going into. My tour never started officially

until Egypt but I used to help Harry. Outside the 

mess was a blank space to the road but Sol Green

bought some orange and lemon trees and we employed

a few Wogs to dig it up and straighten it out. I am

not sure but I think Mick or someone anyway

got hold of some canna bulbs which we put it.

As we left it was coming on nicely and we all

felt that we would have liked to have seen the cannas

flowering. I have just been talking to Theo who saw at

later but when we left the Arabs got amongst the plants

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but even then it looked quite well. I forgot to say that we

did have a verandah. Blackout was ordered and all

windows covered with blue or black paint or paper and

finally with blankets which made the room like the ship

very hot and close. Blankets were over all doors and in

some a light trap - simply two blankets with a space

in between. This has also reminded me that he did

was frozen Argentine beef and a little of our bacon

was not tinned but sides. He also said that he did

not want much money spent there on mess fittings

so that may account for part of Mark's attitude. A month

long range wireless set and gramophone combined at

an extortionate rental and from the moment of its

arrival it did not seem to give much satisfaction

either as an instrument or in anyones selection of 

programmes. The troops had a canteen with all sorts

of arrangements - soft drinks and beer. Mostly beer

and a proportion of Palestine and Australian. The

Palestine beer always had an oniony taste and was

more chemically prepared than brewed. They had two

brands "Stella" and "Eagle". Eagle was terrible and Stella

never was popular and the hangover of either was bad

Besides a headache it effected your stomach. The A.A.C.S.

Australian Army Canteen Service provided Australian

Beer but for a while in the early stages the travelling

it had done and the heat made it very lively and

when opened it frothed out in a stream. I have seen

it reach the ceiling and leave very little left in

the bottle. After awhile the Canteen Sergeant got a good

stock and two large refrigerators and kept some on

ice so that the trouble was stopped. We nearly had

a riot over it one night but the behaviour of the

troops was generally very good. The Canteen also 

supplies meals but we had to put our feet down heavily

over the kitchen and after awhile that improved. Apart

from all this chocolates, cigarettes and all sorts of 

necessities were sold. Attached to our Canteen

was the area depot for all officers and Sergeants

messes and issued on in Bulk. Our Canteen

became famous later but thats another story. Our showers

were meant to be hot but we only enjoyed them hot for

about a week or so before we left. The usual way of doing

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business in Palestine is to let the [[?]] out by contract. The 

successful contractor in turn sublets various portions - digging

of foundations, supply of timber, erecting, supply of the bath

heater and then someone else has the job of installing together

with the supply of the flues. I suppose we have much the same

idea but it is hell in Palestine getting anything completely

finished. The Arabs soon taught us that their saying of

"Butera" had a very real and futuristic meaning. It implied

that their promise or the happening might be redeemed anytime

within a week or a fortnight. To express a more delicate shade

of meaning they might say "Butera fils mush mush" meaning

Tomorrow or when the apricots bloom. That often meant months.

I omitted to say that the camp water supply came from two

native wells but it was pumped into a large high tank and 

there chlorinated. We were quite safe from bilharzia. All

the time of course that these things were going on the 

Battalion was continuing its training for war. Weapon

training - NCO's and officers going to schools - returning

and imparting their recently gained knowledge. We received

a few trucks and John Young was able then to get on with

his transport section. Until then we had a hired truck

with a Wog driver to do all Battalion transport. He was an

extremely bad driver, his brakes were bad and the truck

nearly falling to bits so we breathed a sigh of relief when

he left. Most trucks in Palestine are of a type similar

to those used to carry cattle in Australia. That is a flat

tray and slatted sides. They just fill this with oranges

or watermelons or grapefruit or what have you. I think

the only fruit packed in cases are grapes. After Keith 

Wacker and some of his N.C.O's had been to a carrier

school we received three of these. As these were under my

Command I soon had a ride and learnt to drive them

Its not hard but they are an unnerving ride when they

go over small cliffs or drop into holes and then

the tracks bite and away you go again. There was no

Rifle Range handy so we had to make a miniature

one similar to the one constructed at Pucka. It was

some distance away and constructed with nothing.

But it served its purpose. Later the Battalion went

to Jaffa Rifle Range - as far as I know the only

good range in Palestine. As it lay in a very definite

malaria belt it was dangerous to use but the

medical authorities made up some Quinine and 

every one had parade three days before and have

two doses a day and for a fortnight after return.

The quinine was strong and affected some stomachs

so that meals did not remain but it prevented any

chance of malaria that time. I did not go with the

48

Battalion on its first visit and on the second I think I

was ill. Anyway something prevented me going and I had

my quinine for nothing. During our stay in Palestine we

were visited by the sandfly a fly so tiny that he is alleged

to be able to get through the mesh of a net. We had been

issued with mosquito nets to all ranks. As you know

I went to Cairo and it was after my return that the

bout of sandfly fever went through the Battalions. Very

few escaped it and it certainly was sudden in its

arrival. You felt well and then you did not. Pains

all over worse than influenza [[feams?]], a high temperature

and a wish to die. Fortunately it only lasted a 

few days and was not dangerous but its after effects

were rotten. You felt very tired - it was surprising

how quickly you descended from rude health to

sheer inability to move. During the convalescence

all patients were morbid and extremely depressed

Then the tired and depressed feeling left you as quickly as

it came and you were quite well and jumping out of

your skin. As you know from my letters I had about

six bouts. The doctors maintained that once having

sandfly immunised you to it and that was true in

the majority of cases. They also termed my troubles

as relapsing fever - a general way of covering anything

they did not understand.  Russ Godley had gone away

somewhere and Hugh Johnstone whom you met in

Pucka was doing our RAP. I felt sick one morning

and he looked me over then sat on the edge of the bed

and said that he was going to send me to the hospital

at Gaza by ambulance. I protested but he persuaded

me I should be much better there and could be looked

after instead of staying sick in lines. I allowed him

to persuade me and believe me its easier to get 

into Hospital than to get out. I have proved that

often enough. Anyway I got dressed and for a 

more uncomfortable ride my imaginations fails. The

road is macadam and you normally do not 

notice the slight bumps but in this ambulance you

found all of them and a few more. If any one was

seriously ill then a trip in this or similar bus

would just about finish them. Fortunately all

our ambulances were not like this one and that

was a great blessing or our wounded in Libya

would never have lasted the trip It was a very

49

old stager. When I got to the hospital which then was

tented I was put into an officers ward. The hospital was

run by the first crowd and not by the nurses we had 

on the boat. That was all right for I cannot conceive

being waited _∧on or nursed by nurse friends. The sister in

charge was a bit of a tartar although she was extremely

efficient. I am quite certain she did not like me but

she had a reputation for ticking off all the patients

and if you succeeded in getting out without feeling

the rough edge of her tongue then it was a triumph.

I don't think she liked my habit of smoking when

the doctor made his rounds but as she made all sorts

of general remarks I could not answer back as they

were equally applicable to some of the others in the ward.

As the nurses and [[?]] who came over with us

were not working in an established hospital they visited

us fairly frequently and we were not lonely. Otherwise

it would not have been so good as it was very difficult

to get transport from Bert Jirger and could come

down. It was whilst I was in hospital there that I 

received your eagerly awaited photograph and I was

so excited that I could hardly untie the string and

you were shown to all visitors. I think they

were all curious to see you for I am afraid darling

that on the boat the slightest excuse set me off about

you. And it was such a wonderful photo. It was  

so much better than I pictured and you really 

are the sweetest in the world. I still have it -

the only thing I saved from the sinking of the Costa

Rica. All my other bouts of fever I had in lines

except the one at Ikingi Maryut in Egypt when I 

went in for observation. I always say that there

with the examination I got they frightened it away

I have not had a recurrence since. They tried 

then to get me with a temperature to test for malaria

but could not, found a sore spot over my appendix

and tested my kidneys. As I told you before the

ground all round our camp had been a battlefield

and we constantly found traces of Turks and 

their occupations. I mentioned Keith Wacker and

his gun position before. During all the digging that

went on we found all sorts of Mungs. Turkish bullets

a Turkish identification disc, tunic buttons, damaged

50

equipment, bits of shells and the 5^th Bn did dig

up a couple of dead Turks. Rex Dakers made a 

museum and generally acted a bit morbid. He is

a surprising man and I shall talk more of him

later. On the road to Telaviv and Jaffa and before

you branch off to Jerusalem are more Turkish

defences with a cave probably a headquarters

hollowed out of solid rock in a reentrant. Further

along there was a village which had been heavily

damaged by shell fire on Allenby's advance and 

had never been completely repaired. We went out

on a number of training exercise and they all formed

part of the hardening process as well as training

for war. Dispersion was practiced more and more

and new tactics had to be practiced. Our first

exercise started from the village of Barbara a few

miles along the road. No longer did we march

closed up in threes but strung along each side

of the road in the ditches. It was part of the training

against aerial observation and attacks. This

exercise was not such a big one as the second and

did not go through any more villages. Barbara being

a small one and struggling along the road took no

time at all to pass through. The second exercise

occupied some days and after leaving Barbara

turned towards the villages of Huluqat and

Burea. Burea impressed most of us as the most

evil smelling place we had ever come across. You

approached it through the inevitable hedges and

then marched across the largest village square

I have seen. Hard ground packed like concrete

by the bare feet of men and women and by animals

hooves. Then out the other side through a gap

in the prickly pear. About this time the figs

were ripe and some of the troops risked the thorns

and got some. Even the fruit is spikey and it 

has to be held on the point of a stick and very

carefully peeled. I never tried any. We had to

be very careful in going about these villages

as it was surprising what claims the Arabs

put into headquarters for damaged crops and

orchards. £2 settled a claim for £50 or £100 monthly

51

This particular village had a Wadi or dry watercourse

running through and around it and it was the towns

cesspit. Every imaginable sort of refuse from dead

dogs, sheep, food, excretia of all kinds had been

thrown in and the stench was indescribable. Jack

Bishop had to go along the edge in his capacity of

umpire and the place made him vomit in truth.

The Arabs right throughout Palestine and Egypt have

a practice of placing a stick with a white flag on it

wherever someone is buried. It has some meaning in

their religion and I shall find out and tell you

later. All these exercises tended to make the troops

harder and fitter for the field and taught them water

discipline. On this second exercise we had an aeroplane

cooperating to give us practice but in the light of our

experiences since it was very unreal. The third

exercise acted as an umpire and it became

just hard work with no fun being away from your

unit. On this exercise a snake and I met. He was

about 3 feet long and only ½ an inch thick and

moved much faster than I could. They could travel

I wasted five minutes trying to get him. On the second

exercise some of my lads found a sword under a

grapevine. They looked on this a trophy but

said nothing about it. Later on an old Bedouin

came and complained of the loss. It took some

finding but eventually was returned to him. It 

turned out to be a hierloom of his and was really

beautifully chased and embossed. The scabbard

was also a picture but the sword itself was a

very long and wicked one. Arabs in general are

not allowed to carry arms of any description

but last war Allenby in recognition of the help

received from the Bedouins who are the Arab

nomads granted them the privilege of wearing

swords and carrying rifles. They roam all

over the country and look down on the town

dwelling Arab. From my little experience of

Palestine they have every right to as they were

definitely a better class and much more proud.

In June I was sent to Cairo to a field works course. I 

am still puzzling as to why I should have been sent

as a lot of the stuff taught was very elementary. I shall

never forget the shock I received the first day when a

period was devoted to explaining ordinary tools and how

to use them. And the class solemnly having to learn how

to saw a piece of wood and hammer a nail. And an even

greater shock was to discover that about four young

English subalterns actually did not know how to. The

52

army work for the three weeks I was there can be summed

up in receiving instruction in field defence works, mines

and small demolitions. It was almost the middle of summer

and most of our work was done in the desert near at hand.

The routine was 8 to 12 in the morning and 4 till

6 at night. Study in the evening did not allow us out

much at night but Wednesday afternoons and from

Friday to Monday were free. Cairo is a very expensive

city and travel by taxi appalling. It did not take us

long to find out that the train for about 1^d instead of 

a £1 was better. We had to readjust our ideas of times

though as the trains took a long while. We arrived about

11 pm at Cairo station and immediately the center

of a fighting crowd of Egyptian porters. The station was

of course blacked out and it was difficult to see where

luggage was getting to. The best event was a really good

haymaking stand up fight between two Egyptos. Trucks

took us to abassia where the School was held. Somebody in

the dark showed us the mess and said our rooms were

about 1oo^y away and that we were to wait for our luggage

I had been allowed to bring Jenks with me and he was

looking after mine. We sat in the mess and the traditional

English club atmosphere was prevalent. No one spoke to us

or gave us any advice about a drink or anything. We needed

one and did not know we could have ordered one. After our 

baggage arrived we went to our rooms in a very army stone building

with very wide corridors. It had been built for the climate and was

really very cool although at nights it was a bit close. Still any

place in the hot weather at night would have been close. The 

only things not installed for comfort were fans and as the building

was very new no doubt they would soon have them. Trenches had 

been dug along the sides and we were shown our respective

places. On our alarm we had to get into them. This we had to

do two or three times and once I went to sleep in the bottom

of mine. The only excitement was when an Egyptian anti

aircraft gun near us let go. We later heard but I cannot vouch

for it that they had let off at a British plane on a night

flight but missed by half a mile. Our sleeping quarters

were separated by some wire from an Egyptian army 

[[Arameny?]] Battalion. As the Egyptians were celebrating the

feast of Ramadan and do not eat between sunrise and

sunset during this period of a month they were a 

particularly noisy crowd at night. A gun was fired at

about 9 at night and again at 4 or 3 or sometime like that

in the morning to let them know when their fast began. It 

quite effectively woke everyone else too. During the night they

53

carried on their celebrations and had a loud speaker amongst

other things blaring althrough the night. Just as an added effect

they seemed to shout all night as well and when the a/a Gun

was fired then was pandemonium - squeals of fright etc. During

the day I often saw them exercising some horses and they were

really beautiful beasts. I should have liked a leg over any

one of them. As the air raid alarms became more frequent our

rest was becoming more disturbed so in the end the camp

Commandant said we could take the risk ourselves and

those who were on duty were the only ones who need get up.

Needless to say after that we slept comfortably in bed. We all 

had to take turns on orderly and air defence jobs. I only was

Field Officer once in the three weeks and except for having to 

stay on Barracks I had nothing to do. Whilst in Cairo we made

several journeys and met a few people. Instead of trying to 

remember all of it I shall tell you the highlights. One day we

wanted to see the Trade Commissioner - what for I can't remember

but another chap and I decided to see him between lunch and

four oclock. We had the address but after repeated misadventures

we started again from the only central place we knew - at

Continental Savoy Hotel - the biggest and most popular since

Shepheards was not open. All society and British officers

went there. We walked and walked - I can't remember - yes I do

we were nearly broke and could not afford taxis or gharries 

(the two horse open cart something like a landau) and got lost

again. After receiving some directions which we thought we

understood we started off and after making what we thought

were the right turns we got into a street which we saw was

strangely quiet and had as Europeans or better class Egyptians

We kept on until we met a couple of Black Watch troops and

asked them where we were. It was a great shock to find we

were in the Berka - the brothel area and still only a 100 yards

from Shepheards one of the most famous hotels in the world. We

retraced our steps very quickly and knowledge then gained

showed us the unsavoury aspects not noticed before. The 

Berka as the modern Wazile - Cairos infamous plague

spot - I mean brothels - of the last war where the Australians

gained immortal fame in what is known as the Battle of 

the Wazir. They burned the place down and did a job every

one now considers was then best. It was not done because

it was wanted but as a reprisal for a theft one of the women

had made and the wounding of the Australian concerned.

They completely wrecked and burnt every house of illfame

and out of evil came good. Its modern counterpart could

well do with the same. I never went near it again but

troops and others with more curiosity who went there 

assure me that all the vices and evils of the Ages and

the last are still there. I did hear that the Egyptian

government is doing something but I doubt if it will