Diary of Edward Lloyd Fleming, October 1945- March 1957 - Par 2
on the hills accentuated all their folds in the mauve haze.
On the bank a number of pariah dogs wandered about &
barked excessively and we saw an old Arab, complete with
flowing robes, headgear & slung rifle, riding his camel on
the bank. Passed a couple of dromes and presently we saw
Suez, not a large place & very flat & a Causeway connected
it to Port Tewfik. Great excitement on seeing a few lassies on
the bank & we went out into the bay past "EMPIRE MARRIOT" &
"EMPIRE HEPWORTH" to anchor. After the officials had come on, the
boys came out on an LST & several had wives with them &
some of the wives are Italians. The natives had the job of
loading and they were fearfully slow & inefficient. However
the stuff was all got on & we pulled out at 1730. We are the
biggest draft of RAAF ever to sail; about 2000. Met several
chaps I knew - Frank Ryan, Bruce Fuller, & saw many others.
As we sailed down the Gulf of Suez, the sun set behind the
big, rugged hills in the west side and left a deep rust colour
on the horizon which slowly modulated to a rich blue
overhead and the further we went, the deeper the colour
became until now it's just a blaze of stars & the old
moon about half formed. On tannoy tonight they gave a bit
of gun about the ship. She does 21½ kn.. max. & this is her 9th trip
to Australia. She & two sister ships hold the record for
distance travelled by troopers. Need to get to the Cape in 13½
days & the largest no. of troops carried is 4000. We get
to Aden in 3 days and 12 days take sight the W.A. coast.
She was built at Belfast.
15.10.45. (Mon). It was hot from early morning & the
day was darned near unbearable. Unfortunately we
had a following wind at about our own speed, so we
were virtually without any breeze. We passed a big ship
heading for Suez & I spent my time reading. I met
Flowie Walker & he sent his regards to David. Dinner was
a bit monotonous again and in the afternoon I read in
the sun then did a little voluntary P.T. which certainly
wasn't before its time. We do it on D deck forward of
the bridge. I had a most refreshing salt-water shower & the
salt water soap actually worked. Then, after waiting for
fresh water to come on (the consumption of which is
far in excess of what it should be), I had tea. In the
evening there was a nice breeze forward on E deck &
I yarned to Bill for a while then washed my khaki
clothes. About lunchtime we passed a lighthouse, the
only thing visible for this stretch of the journey. I
watched the Stirling races for a while then hit the
hay. Woke about 0330 in a fierce sweat & so took
my blanket outside in the breeze where I slept
till awakened by the deck cleaners at 0500.
16.10.45 (Tues). Another really searing day but the direct
effect of the sun was offset by a breeze even tho' warm. The
extra mob that embarked a Suez has messed everything up & we
have to queue for a wash at 0630, queue for drinks, no room
to sit about on deck - we're really overcrowded. After breakfast
I got a place in the bows & stayed there reading all
the morning. We had boat-stations but it was the last for a
few days. After dinner I went forward again & sunbathed,
slept & read. I did voluntary P.T. again and had a good
salt-water shower & a wash then it was tea time. In the
evening I sat up on the top of E deck then went down to D
deck to join in the community singing. The Dutch sang a
few of their folk tunes very nicely and in a natural harmony,
but our "Waltzing Matilda" sounded pathetic.
I queued for a long time for a drink then took my blanket
on the D deck forward to sleep in the night but it was
dusty & cigarettes were flying around everywhere. We
passed several ships today one being the "JOHN DE WITT"
from Rangoon to UK.
17.10.45 (Wed). We were in sight of some small islands
when I awoke and soon came past them. The coast of
Fr. Somaliland was on our right and that of Arabia to
the left. Yesterday, they said, the A/C carrier we passed was
the Victorious. Today we passed a flotilla of L.C.T.'s heading
for India & just near the spot there was an island, uninhabited
except for a coastguard station, to which we had
to identify ourselves. During last night we passed the
island of Moccha, famous for coffee. As the day passed, the
land could be seen only occasionally and so in the
morning I read with Bill on the foredeck & in the afternoon
on E deck. Went to P.T. & had a super shower after then
when I'd finished tea, I had a yarn to Rolo Teape-Davis.
In the evening I nattered to Frank Ryan and Ken Butler & then
hit the hay. Intend having a word with the Welfare
Officer about organizing a souvenir magazine. We
have a very bright moon at present and there's really
no need for ships lights. My favourite position in
the evening is forward, sitting on the fin of the Stbd
paravane. Bill got a saloon menu for me today & he
says he's had the voyage! The last two nights I slept
out, last night in the bows, but it got pretty windy
and there was a lot of cigarettes & paper flying into
my face. The crew bod. woke us at 0500 by whipping
the pillow from under our heads! After tea I did
my ironing on D. deck.
18.10.45 (Thurs). Spent a good night in the 'cabin' & joined
the wash queue at 0630. Just messed about till breakfast
looking at the S. Somaliland coastline and after breakfast
I got a seat & read quite a bit. We saw quite a number of
sharks & there are lots of jelly-fish about too. The land
looked very hot & dry and the undersides of the clouds
had a red/yellow reflection. Passed a few dhows & three
bods in a bum-boat waved excitedly. After dinner the
coastline was still very mountainous and at 1500 we
passed Cape Guardafui. Two ships passed, one the H.M.S.
Wolfe - a transport apparently. We saw a huge blue,
spotted fish just by the boat & it appeared to be basking
and shortly afterwards a gigantic fish or whale started
playing round & made on lunge right out of the
water, full length. There he "stalled" and crashed
back into the water with a terrific splash. We swung
south-east shortly after sighting the cape and
presently Lokotia Is. became visible but only in the
extreme distance & as 4 separate blobs on the horizon.
It is now dark but Africa didn't fail to put on the most
vivid sunset I've ever seen, as a farewell. The layer of
cloud above us broke to the west and the cape rose
mauve out of the water. The sun left the little clouds
a brilliant red and the sky passed from the deepest
orange to the tendrest yellow/blue. Gradually the
burnished copper clouds turned grey like those above
us and the sky retained its orange for quite some
time. The only change was an increase in the intensity
until it, too, became a dark void like the sky overhead.
Thank you Africa!! And 4500 miles to go!
19.10.45 (Frid). When I got up we were in a very calm sea
and hundreds of flying fish were whizzing across the
water the breeze got up shortly and it was quite a hot day. I
spent the morning on the hatch cover in front of the
bridge, reading & sleeping. After dinner I went up to
F deck & sat on a raft reading & yarning with F/O Roly.
I got a couple of magazines from S.A.R.C. today. They hold
a tote on board for the no. of miles the ship runs in
a day. Todays was 413 & our position at noon was
8o 32'N 56o 20'E. Yesterday we ran 422 miles. I had a
shower & they are still fetching about the amount of fresh
water we are consuming. The sun went down golden
tonight and after it had set, the small castellated Cu.
kept the tinge & the sky behind, cirrus mainly, was
a jumble of colour from sepia to yellow. Last night
I watched some open air pictures after writing this up &
they are on again tonight, the show being 'Fanny by
Gaslight'.
20.10.45 (Sat). What turned out to be a dreadfully
dull day. After breakfast I tried to settle down to a spot
of serious reading but no joy & I watched the ship's
tote till dinner time. The afternoon was no better &
it was too hot indoors to concentrate & to hot &
crowded outdoors. Watched the sun set but it
wasn't quite so spectacular altho rather beautiful &
the moon was a full circle & made all the clouds
white & lit up the ship. Last nights' picture was shown
again, so after pottering about for a while, I hit the hay.
Ship's run 430 miles & 1200 posn. 04° 30'N 62° 18'E.
21.10.45(Sun). I got a position on E deck after breakfast
but it was terribly hot and hard so I started wandering
about. Bill was on F deck & I had a yarn with him
then went to the drum-head service outside Orderly Room.
There was quite a large crowd & the padre took too long
to have a communion after After it I had dinner. I got a
got place on F deck & Bill & I sunbathed all the afternoon.
Then I had a shower & got ready for tea. The flying
fish are getting quite large in these waters. Sunset
was pretty but cloudy. At 1930 I went to another
service in the cinema and it was very good. The
padre took too long to hold communion. Did a spot of
reading & thinking after it and then hit the hay.
438 miles at 1300. posn. EQUATOR. 68° 30'E.
22.10.45.(Mon). It was wet & showery when I got
up and after washing I read a little and had my
breakfast. I got a good seat on E deck Stbd side
& kept it till boat drill & got it again after drill. We
had to shift it back because of a really torrential
downpour. I went around to the ships tote then
had dinner. In the afternoon I sat & read for a
while in the smoke room but it was too stuffy
so I just wandered around & looked over the
bows at the big waves breaking The fellows
who got on at Port Tewfik have had their luggage
rifled in the hold & there is to be an enquiry in
a day or so. Couldn't find the communion service
so I washed my clothes & had a shower. After tea
I had a yarn to Bill & he won ₤1.4.0 in the tote today.
Read & played cards a bit then got off to bed
early. The bloke who makes the announcement
about the advance of clocks is very precise in his
speech - ATT-TENTION PLEESE. CLOCKS WILL BEE
AD-VANCED THIRTEE MINUTES TOONIGHT BEETWEEN
THE HOURS OWERS OF TEN PEE EM AND SIX
A. EM. THAT IS ORL. THANKYOU' and another
funny bit of speech was the Gyps. at Port Said
'SEND THE MONEY' after they'd been beaten down.
Today was much cooler than recently & there
was little sun all day. The ship has developed
quite a lot of movement but it is quite gentle.
457 miles, posn 04° 03'S, 74° 33'E.
23.10.45(Tues). A very similar day to yesterday with
an occasional torrential shower. I spent the morning
on E deck till we had to return our chairs, & then in
the lounge. In the afternoon also I stayed in the
lounge & read a lot. Sunset tonight was wild &
brilliant, like a huge fire burning in the bowl of the
clouds. The sea was coppery and the clouds overhead
made the sky look as if it were on fire. Ahead was a
dark line of an Sc. front and to the west was a
melee of Sc. Cu (anvils) & Ci. A huge dark shaft,
caused by a cloud, passed right over the ship.
The contrast between the red & blue was most
striking & there was quite a lot of green too. Nothing
to do in the evening. The bloke said some days ago that
if they have to spend 1 min on each man in ship's
inspection, that would take 5000 min or 82 hrs!
433 miles POSN. 08° 18'S 80° 25'E.
24.10.45.(Wed). There was a heavy shower just after
I got up and then it lifted for a while. I read in the
lounge until 1030 when I went to the Casino for a
lecture on Rehabilitation etc. Scheme undertakes to
advance loans of ₤950 up to 45 yrs. after discharge
for home building. It came on to rain again and
during very heavy spells, the ship's siren was
blown about every two min. After dinner
the seas whipped up and we had a nice little
storm. Water was all over the deck and a lot was
caught in the "sun" tarpaulins so we used the
overflow to have a fresh water shower in. Looked
quite funny all the lads in the nude washing
themselves and others kneeling on the deck scrubbing
Drawing - see original document
THE ONLY FRESH-WATER
SHOWER ON THE 'STIRLING CASTLE'
at their clothes! The crew came out in oilskins to
make secure or take down ropes & tarps. etc & the
wind which reached a high speed at one stage, has
died down a little. Very hard to find anywhere
to stand even & in the 'cabin' it's as hot as blazes.
Absolutely NO. entertainment for us. Also there's quite
a lot of discussion about D.R.O.s which say that
S.A. & W.A. blokes are to disembark at Fremantle. NO
battle-dress to be worn in Aussie & N.S.W. chaps are to
go to 2PD. The whole ship seems very discontented.
Three of the Dutchmen stayed sleeping on No 5 hatch
all thru the rain first covered by the drenched
tarp. & their own blankets. I think they must have
been ill, altho the boat is moving surprisingly
little.
435 miles POSN. 12° 34'S 81° 23'E.
25.10.45 (Thurs). Rather overcast to start the day but
it improved rapidly & was very fine but there was a
cold & strong head wind. I spent the morning in
the drawing room reading & writing then watched the
ship's tote result & walked around a bit. After
dinner I read & slept some more and watched a few
events of the gymkana such as pillow & cock
fighting, high jumping. There was a deep blue colour
to the sea and bags of whitecaps & our bow waves
were rather beautiful. Just messed about till ten
and then spent the evening writing & watching the
boxing tournament. They have taken down the sun
awnings so I guess they don't expect much more heat.
414 miles POSN. 17° 13'S 91° 32'E.
26.10.45(Fri). After writing last night I went to the big
boxing tournament between Aussies & Dutch. G/C
Graham (Beast of Bob-Ellabow) got a hissing as he
entered and then they started. First bout went to
the dutch boy, then the Aussie's in the next two knocked
their opponents out after only a few hits. The fourth
was a draw and the fifth went to the Aussie after
a very plucky effort by the Dutchman. The dutch
chap in the fourth kept a smile on his face, which
called for raucous shouts of "take that grin off his
face, dig.." After any direct hit, the Dutch fella stood
p back & pointed to his opponent & laughed at him'...
The heavy weights were a disappointing finishing
pair & the result, to the Aussie, brought more hisses
This morning the day was quite cool & after
breakfast I went to the lounge & read & slept a bit
Then I got a bit of fresh air by going up the bows
& watching the seas seething below. Quite a heavy
swell & lots of wind & whitecaps & the sea is hurled
away boiling from the Brow and dazzling white.
I spent the afternoon reading aft on E deck &
sunbathing. Had quite a long yarn with Bruce
Fuller too. We actually had ice-cream for dinner today
After tea I wrote some letters & then went to the
concert in the cinema, more of which anon.
417 miles POSN. 21° 15'S 97° 37'E;
The concert was A1. Eric Cathcart sang 'Rd. to Mandalay'
and the band played some wizard rhumbas
& tangoes. Three fat chaps dressed as parsons sang
the Stirling Song - a satire, - from books labelled,
'FOREVER UNDER" ♫ - a skit on the "ship's book, 'Forever
Amber". Sketches were all well done & the conjuror
had xtra good patter. W.C.'s daughter took part too.
27.10.45 (Sat). Sunny to start with but the cloud
came up & there was a violent wind & heavy seas
so we've been tossing like a cork all day. Read in the
morning & afternoon & had a fresh water wash. I
wrote after tea, at which our waiter proudly showed
us his letter in "double English" & the photo of his
girl friend in Holland. Watched the Melb. cup on E
deck Sq. then hit the hay.
418 mile POSN. 25o 08'S 103o 50'E.
28.10.45 (Sun) We got a terrific kick out of hearing GWA at
0830 and I spent the morning reading then went to the
drum-head service. Quite a good attendance but it was
bitterly cold. Last night the 'captain's wife' presented the
prizes to the gymkhana winners. Actually, it was a fat R.A.A.F.
type whose hair fell off when Padre Bob Davies embraced
him. Bob Davies is the M.E. figurehead on account of the
fact that he was demoted from S/L to F/L by G/C Graham.
I read a little in the sun after dinner and then collected
my leave pass for Fremantle/Perth! we're to be allowed
off until 2359. The captain sent a tannoy message to the
chaps disembarking, wishing them good luck and
saying that he & the crew were sorry they had not been
able to provide better accomodation but it was the best
in the circumstances that was possible. He also begged
that they bore in mind the fact that the trip had taken
1 week less than normal peace-travel & we'd averaged
18¼ knots. The tannoy was going red-hot today & Dick
Hudson who has been running a musical session gets
off tomorrow & his place will be taken by Norman Swain
- the idiotic "Billy Bouncer" of 342 who is an L.A.C. After
tea I went to the O.P. service in the cinema. Bob Davies gave
a brilliant address on the unity and suffering of churchmen
during the war in occupied territories. They relayed
the ABC news again & the boys are all very excited at the
prospect of getting off. Money is a snag & I've had to
borrow my second quid from Bill. Getting near home
is a great feeling.
405 miles POSN. 29°.04'S 109° 59'E.
29.10.45 (Mon) We were in steady water when I woke &
going considerably slower. Much excitement when first
the radio mast on Rotnest Is. then the land itself became
visible. We got nearer & nearer & at 0829, the pilot &
customs came aboard. We pressed on & after a tricky
bit of steering got into Fremantle harbour. Passed the
Indomitable as we approached. There was quite a large
crowd on the wharf with flags & hankies & even placards
with the fellas' names on them! Some of the antics of
the crowd, especially women, were really funny & the
crowd broke the barrier & streamed to the gangway. They even
had a band to welcome us! The W.A. types went off first
down a very slippery gangway and many slipped with
their big bundles of kit. Then before the SA or civvy passengers,
there was a great mass panic & we got off. Crossed the
rly line & by a big pub a bus labelled Perth went past
so we hopped in, again in a panic. As it happened it
had been there & so we had about a 300yd ride! Changed
our money and caught a train to town. Oh how
different Aussie is & the way they speak! Rather sprawled
out suburbs built without much plan. The railway
seat was wicked! In Perth we had a look around &
Bill & I bought some sandwiches & ate them by R. Swan
in the sun on the Esplanade. Then we explored town a bit
more & went up to King's Park. It is on a hill & overlooks
Perth & a really beautiful sight it is. Then we
went to the bottom of the hill & caught a trolley bus to
Claremont & another to Cottesloe, the popular beach - we
noticed the white sand and clean water. Met Higgs &
Mosley etc there & went back to town same train bus &
had steak & eggs at the Tudor for 5/9 for 2!! Then we
filled in time a little & went to see the new hospital,
still being built, and at 930 saw "I live in Grosvenor
Sq." at the Royal. We caught our train back after a
wizard spell on dry land on what the locals told
us was their best day of the year. Many of the lads
puked with all their beer but were mostly sober
when they got back here.
30.10.45 (Tues). At 0700 they took the gang plank
away for the last stage of our journey and we left
Fremantle. It took a long while to pass down Garn
Road and get to Rotnest Is. but once past it, we
stepped up speed. Quite a hot day which I filled in by
reading. After dinner I had a little snooze and then
we were assembled in Casino for a Pay lecture. Subsistence
3/- a day for 35 days & we can draw whatever
amount of money we like. They told us there's no gen
on whether we stop off Melb. or Sydney There was an
emergency drill & I had a salt-water shower. Fresh
water is on the whole time now too. After tea I wrote
a little and then watched the sun set & then went to
the film show, "This Happy Breed." They won't accept
Aussie money on the boat for anything so I can't
get the haircut I promised myself. In port at
Fremantle was PARRAKOOLA (Göteborg) And we
passed ANGOLA (Portugal) & LIDVARD.
31.10.45 (Wed) Turned out to be another long tedious
day with rumours galore as to whether we stop at
Melb. or Sydney. I spent the morning reading &
likewise the afternoon. Norman Swain now conducts
the music sessions. Bill & I had afternoon tea
together & I had a haircut after acquiring some
English money. We must have passed at least
30-40 whales today all spouting their hardest.
One school of c. b was very close. Also we had 4
albatross' with us soaring around the stern. They
are most graceful and almost resemble an old
[[?]]. the way their wings wobble. Where they go at
night I don't know because they have left us. Nothing
to do at night so I stayed in Belsen.
439 miles POSN. 36°. 02'S 120° 36'E
1.11.45 (Thurs). The day started off very fine but by 0830
we were in thick fog and for about 3 hrs we had the
old siren going. Passed an a/c carrier & at 1000 they made
an issue of comforts I got mine then hung around till
the end & got 102 wrigley's chewing gums, & then it
was dinner time & in the afternoon I read & had an F.F.I.
The sea was very calm all day but there was a heavy
swell & we've been pitching & rolling a deuce of a
lot and the day was pretty cool. More disembarkation
gen & red tape & we go to Sydney. I spent another
evening in the "cabin" playing patience, yarning &
writing.
422 miles POSN 37° 22'S 129° 12'E
2.11.45 (Fri) Another cold day and a terribly long one
too because we seem to be so near & yet so far. We
passed a cargo boat but most of the time I was in the
lounge or smoke-room reading. This afternoon we
were paid & I got £20 & £ 5.11.0 subsistence. Also they
gave us petrol ration, clothes & food coupons & a
leave pass. Paid Bill back my debt. The blokes were
stupidly excited last night, shouting & loud talking etc
making it very hard to sleep. The stakes at the gambling
games have gone up tremendously and I think the
promoters are going to make a huge profit. Just
killed time as best as possible in the evening & went
to a lecture by Sgt. Beanser of the Netherlands forces
on the relationship between N.E.I. & Aust. Then I hit the
hay.
426 miles POSN. 38° 35'S 138° 05'E
3.11.45 (Sat). Last night was very peaceful and I watched
Hand drawing - see original document
"OUR TEXT-BOOK"
KATHLYN WINSOR
'FOREVER AMBER'
the phospherous in the bows
& there was a tail wind. This
morning we still had a tail
wind & it was quite rough.
I was reading for a while then we
saw Wilson's Promontory. We passed very close to it
just a tumble of rocks & gaunt tree trunks, the
ground being covered by an olive green undergrowth.
As we passed a coastal vessel going the other way
& closer in, was dipping its bows constantly. To
seaward were a few islands and there were
hundreds of birds on the water & flying.
There was a race commentary on the
radio & the voice
was horrible
"You can still
git a bid in
Melbourne"!
Hand drawing - see original document
JUST SITTING
The sun
shone on
the promontory as
we left it & the coast receded until we were
once more quite at sea, but the ship is now
very steady. A whole legion of albatross is following
us - & so's the wind. Passed two destroyers
and a very neat looking merchant-liner. They broadcast
the races & news from Melb. & honestly it
seems as if we are returning to a bush community;
the talk of sheep & cattle markets! Aussie almost seems
insular. The last ship's tote today drew 1141
punters! Had what I hope to be my last salt-water
shower & we have to be all packed up by
0900 tomorrow. At tea-time more coast was
visible to port & we should shortly turn north.
433 miles POSN. 38° 52'S 147° 13'E.
Last night I actually gambled for the first time at a game
called "banker." I won 3/- & lost 2/- so am still a bob
to the good. We passed Gabo Is & swung north this
evening & were hailed by H.M. Submarine VOL -
on Aldis. Played patience & packed my stuff then hit
the hay.
4.11.45 (Sun) Excitement ran at fever pitch today and
I woke at 0500 & was up at 0615! After a shave I started a
vigil on deck but we were rather shaken when the
boat stopped! However an officer told us that we were
merely ahead of schedule and the two black balls merely
meant no-one in command. Land became visible
soon after re-starting and we could pick out the
entrance to Botany Bay very easily and I just saw the
top of the bridge. It was a glorious day and the houses
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