Letters from Alexander Sutherland Mackay to his Family, 1918 - Part 1
1/121/1918
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Dear Mother,
It is freezingly cold today
snow all over the shop, its really miserable
but I must write, after my trip to Paris.
Before I start, you will be pleased to hear
I met Ronnie today, he rode over from some
farm where he has been relieving, a fellow
on Paris Leave. Ronnie is a bit grey in the
hair but looks well & as hard as nails.
We had about ½ an hours yarn, & I promised
to go down to his Camp Sunday if we did not
shift. Since I hear we are shifting Sunday.
but he thinks they are also on the move shortly,
so we may strike one another again.
Two of us from this Battery left for Paris at 7.30
am on the 16th ulto. & after a monotonous train
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journey reached our destination at 8.45 pm
that night. Immediately on arrival we
were taken round to report. As there were
a fair number of soldiers - Canadians, Tommies &
ourselves, it was sometime before they all got
through but we secured at the ymca
there a very enjoyable tea. The ymca
then distributed us per Motor busses at
various hotels for the night, we ended
up in the Hotel de Strasbourg & were not long
in getting to bunk after the train journey.
17/12/17. We shifted our quarters this morning
to the Hotel de Violet, we heard previously that
the manageress was a real good sort & spoke
English. We were not disappointed, three
of us got very nice rooms all opening into
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one another. Thick carpets on the floors
double beds & telephones & electric lights, beside
heaters - not hard to take after dugouts.
You only pay for bed & breakfast & time
outside for out other meals. That cost 7x
7 Francs a night but I may say the breakfast,
after the French custom, was a buttered roll
of bread & a nice cup of coffee. A ring on the
phone & this was sent up to your bedroom.
Roamed round all day on our own, no
doubt its an ideal city, beautiful buildings
statues & fountains galore, wide streets kept
in great conditions whilst the shops & their
displays surpass anything Ive seen in
London. Everything & everybody looks so natty
you can't realize a war is on here, barring
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the sight of soldiers of every nationality
18/19 Dec. Continued the same programme
these days, the Ausies are evidently well
thought of & the girls far from being shy.
We have had great sport at the Cafes, talking
to numerous damsels in pidgeon English &
French. Sometimes we would strike people
more especially in the street, who understood
English but often in the Cafes we had
to resort to signs etc. This No doubt we
took risks, as sometimes when we struck a
gascon who could only parley French, we used
to delight in calling him all the rotten
names imaginable. Of course all the joke
was on our side but no doubt often they
had jokes at our expense. It was amusing
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also to strike a mademoiselle, who spoke
about as much English as as we did French.
The conversations with them, often came
to an abrupt stop on both sides for want
of the right word. We have visited the
Alambhra & Follies Berges Operas. In these
shows they have promenades, you walk
round making glad eyes at the girls, whilst
seeing the shows. Its a great idea I think.
20th Decr. Today went with a party from
Blighty Corner, run by a Miss Butter for Soldiers,
to Versailles. A Mrs. Gorry, an American lady
acted as guide she was tiptop, full of humour
& evidently a well educated & travelled woman.
We were taken right through the huge
palace built by Louis XIII & Louis XIV.
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One can't describe the magnificence of
the building, you can understand this, when
they say it was built to accommodate
10,000 guests. In addition to the walls, every
ceiling is covered with beautiful paintings,
whilst the ballroom, I believe has no equal in
the World. We saw the actual bed of Louis XIV
& the Congress room, in which the French
Presidents are elected. In practically every
room of this huge palace, you see lovely
paintings, bronze, silver or marble statues
of Louis XIV all I believe made at his request.
Evidently he was a very modest young fellow.
A good deal of the original furniture & a few
of the old clocks are still there. You also
see the balcony from which, Marie Antoinette
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addressed the populace, when they marched
out starving from Paris, during the Revolution.
The grounds are enormous but the place today
was covered in snow & the fountains frozen
so we were debarred from seeing them in
their full beauty. I am posting some books
of Versailles home.
21/12/17. Today we went to Eiffel Tower now
used as a wireless station, the big wheel, the
largest in world & Napoleon's tomb. The public
are not allowed in Eiffel Tower & we were dubious
of going round on the wheel owing to the cold,
Napoleon's tomb is a beautiful red marble
as post cards sent home will show, situated
in a huge building. Tonight we are
travelling round the city with a guide.
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They have a peculiar custom in the
restaurants & cafes here. You order anything
& they place a small saucer, with the price
marked on, in the centre of the table. During
a confab, the dose is generally repeated,
especially by our crowd, so you gener ended
up with a pile of saucers like the Eiffel
Tower on the table. The garcon or waiter
counts these & gives you the damage.
I may say here that waiters are not paid
in Paris & I believe in some cases pay
premiums for their jobs. They depend solely
on tips, estimated at 10% of your bill.
That means if your bill runs to 10 Francs
your part up 11. This is the case with
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with everything, even to taxidrivers. Their
metre registers so much, you add 10%.
This tipping may appear a rotten system
& yet we find restaurants & Taxis (especially)
much cheaper than in London. Wines
(red & white) appear the usual meal drink
although a few take coffee, little tea is
put away. No shortage of petrol here, taxis
are in myriads, evidently there is no
rule of the road here, in & out, offside
or nearside they race along. However the
wide streets in the main boulevards
give them plenty of room to operate.
The only eyesore to the Paris streets are
the horses in the taximetre's (cabs & buggies),
apparently all the decent horses have been
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confiscated by the military. Its really
cruel to see the poor broken kneed animals
dragging their legs along the street at a
snail's pace. In ordinary times I daresay
they would be fined for driving such creatures.
22/12/17 Today went with guide to Fontainebleu -
Napoleon & Josephine's residence.
About 40 miles away, we first took a
boat down the River Seine, thence on
per train. Needless to say this place,
like the Palace at Versailles, is beautiful
but to thoroughly appreciate the marvellous
carvings on the walls & ceilings, paintings
& mosaic work, one would have to be
an expert. The snow again spoilt the
beauty of the grounds to a great extent
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