Diary of Evelyn Davies, 18 May 1915 - 20 [July] 1915 - Part 2

Several new passengers boarded at Colombo 
mostly English, and children ad lib.
Everyone tired and hot, sailed at about
7 pm. Slept on deck. Col. Fraser
also favoured us c̄ his company all
night. Here endeth Colombo.
3^rd. Hot and sticky, saw land almost
all the morning, mostly mountainous
passed the 'Nubia' also another boat
in the distance. Gillie is very sick
face very swollen, in bed all day. Dr
said 'nothing serious' & she ought to be up.
has a temp. but of course the medical
man knows, wish we had them.
Went to Sports in the pm. in the N.S.W.
end great fun, bun eating contests; singing.
and all sorts. Made a garter purse even if
we get wrecked, will still have some cash.
'clad in a garter purse'. Saw Mr. Janes this
a.m he took 20 snaps in Colombo
longing to see them going to give him
the tank tonight. Very hot. hot. still slept
on deck, accompanied by the Col.

4^th. Hotter than ever, hot wind blowing.
Gillie had face opened without anaesthetic
poor child fainted, looks very. sick, up on
deck, but prostrated, really boils are fearful
things. Nothing doing, too hot. saw land
and Palms in the distance.
5^th Nearing land every one excited water
very brown in patches several hawk like
birds hovering round, at about 11. a.m.
Boat at anchor were boarded by Customs
officer fearfully hot, allowed to land
at 12.30 went across in P & O launch.
Landed at the Carnac Bunda a large shed
like a big market and smelling of birds &
animals, waited for the boys but discovered
they would not be able to disband so
took our way to 'The Great Western Hotel'
in a Gharri. a hooded phaeton like vehicle
drive by a man in baggi–fied breeches
and a Phez well we traversed through
fearful streets, lowly built houses natives
everywhere. Mawson was deadly scared we
were being kidnapped, talk about dirt
the streets were filthy, now & then we

came across men sweeping the streets c̄
small hand brushes. At last we reached
the Hotel a very second rate place
had lunch, the salad was awfully
weird the lettuce was supplemented by lily
leaves & the dressing was 'jolly hot'.
had great difficulty in paying as they would
only take Indian money guess he cheated
us some. After much argument we chartered
two Gharris and took ourx way to the
Victoria Gardens we first visited a Chemists
shop Gillie bought some gauze for her face.
We drove down street after street mostly narrow
with tiny shops. the keepers had beds rigged up
right amongst their wares, and many were
asleep, in some places there were several
couches in the centre of the pavement
with occupants in each. Every time we wished
to stop we punched the driver in the back
and gesticulated wildly. Took some snaps
Most of the conveyances were drawn by
Oxen but were not nearly as picturesque
as in Colombo. Saw most weird signs
up over some shops. Mawson again
got stage fright, our driver was funny
he shrieked wildly to clear the way.
In due course we arrived at Victoria
Gardens, the Museum was in the grounds.
We went into Museum. a most wonderful
building very Eastern looking, some wonderful
animals in cases. some Australian too.
Upstairs were some wonderful models of buildgs
also numerous figures. there were myriads
of natives talking wholesale. The whon women
have rings in one nostril threaded with pearls and
other gems. also all sorts of gems in their
hair, bangles on their ankles ever so many.
Outside the Museum is a huge stone Elephant
As far as the gardens are concerned I can't
say much for we didn't go round very much.
We then drove back to the City, went into
several shops purchased 1 pr. silk stockings
for 2 Rupees (they are too small but that is
a mere bagatelle) Went to a boot shop bought
a pair white shoes. Then drove to fruit market
Gillie wanted a Silk blouse, a pleasant
dark gentleman most charmingly said he
knew just what we wanted took us into

shops innumerable, but we were shown most
gaudy tawdry looking things, the silk was
awfully dear too. Well we went to shop after
shop, one shop they wanted right or wrong
to sell us a man's shirt the most fearful
silk too.  got sick of it and drove in style
back to the fruit market. Talk about beggars
they were loathesome 'Mumma backsheesh!
no mother! no father!' slap abd. 'no dinner',
No touch your foot; salaam! 'give penny mumma'
and slap forehead. Talk about repulsive, it was
fatal to give to anyone for crowds simply
beseige you. However, in the market we bought
a basket and fruit and didn't they try to
cheat us, were awfully sick of them.
The kind gentleman who showed us where to
buy blouses (which we didn't buy) dogged our
footsteps saying Mumma Backsheesh. so
we gave him 2 rupees told him keep the change.
All the time we were trotting from shop to
shop our carriage followed, it was funny.
however we started to drive back to the
hotel but discovered it was 5.50 pm & the
launch departed at 6pm, we tried hard
to make the man understand to hurry but
each time we spoke he would pull up
and talk hard so we gave in, and
muttered Carnac Bunder at intervals into
his dainty ear, tried to make him hit the
horse by gesticulation, but he smiled blandly.
Passed a place where men were washing.
they had slabs of wood which they beat
the articles with after dipping them in water.
When we reached the Carnac Bunder the man
asked us for 12 Rupees one of the Soldiers
off the boat came to our rescue & told us
to pay 5 Rupees which we did and bolted
ha! it was funny to see the man's face.
Were in plenty of time for the launch. & reached
the boat alright. Gillie was tired but had
enjoyed herself moderately well. A great clamour
with the Boat side men & women coaling, besides
other Cargo, there was great excitement. Dinner at
7.30 pm we were very hungry too, had a
sleep in the chair, then went downstairs
rigged the stretcher on the Hurricane deck
was the only one who did so, but hadn't
a possibility of sleeping the noise was terrific

dark figures lurked everywhere, had my purse
strapped on my arm. At about 1 am. I went
into music room after watching the natives,
the women did most of the work screaming &
jabbering at the top of their voices, then they
set up a chant not very musical and most
monotonous; had about 1 hour's sleep (if that)
6^th Sunday Morning breakfast usual time, spent
most of morning watching natives, the crew we
had since Australia left amid great cheering
in huge boats (towed along) the Stewards dressed
like sore thumbs left in a Sailing boat.
A fresh crew came on board they looked much
the same as the old crew, their luggage
comprised an umbrella, some a stick.
At eleven a.m we were assembled in the
Music Room for medical inspection, a dried
up lady Dr. c̄ hands like claws grabbed each
one's wrist didn't seem to matter where.
said 'name please! feel alright' then you
passed on. At 1 pm passengers who had spent night
on land embarked, luncheon was a fearful
muddle sat for over an hour & then didn't
have enough to keep one going.

sailed in afternoon, passed Hospital ship red
& white c̄ huge red cross in centre, has
been taking patients from Persian Gulf to
to Bombay where there is a large Hospital/Military/
Had a chat with the boys in the evening, no
church.
7^th Still fearfully hot. Lecture from Dr. Kent Hughes
on ears nothing startling, in the evening we were
vaccinated, inoculated, felt the reaction about ½ an hour
after, at about 10.30 felt aching down one
side, as the night wore on joint pains were
severe mostly on left side, didn't sleep &
couldn't rest, went to Cabin about 2. am
felt anyhow, head-ached horribly.
8^th Stayed in bed all day head ached also
back had some Asperin & slept a good
deal. Col. Jamieson & Matron came in
the former assured me I only had 'fleeting
joint pains, nothing serious at all' &
departed. Better in the evening except back.
9^th Head better, back a bit achefied, got up;
discovered the silk we bought in Colombo
is only 18 inches wide guess we were taken
in. Lecture by Col. Jamieson. Suppose on Hysteria

10^th. Entered Gulf of Aden at an early hour
the water was like a Mill pond most
wonderfully smooth, and very blue. Saw
red elongated convoluted tube like fish (Sea
Serpents) which emitted red powdery substance
from di their mouths. In the a.m 3^rd Double
General Hospital paraded and were inspected
by a General who landed at Bombay it
was hot and tiring, but we only had indoor
uniforms on. All the morning we had
an interesting time watching fish, in a dark
patch of water we passed a school of

Porpoises they were having a beautiful
time jumping and frisking round. The
flying fish were beautiful the water
being so smooth they would leave such
pretty tracks behind them – then we came
across such pretty fish rain-bow tinted
and about 2 feet long, one fish was huge
rain-bow tinted and had a long sword
like arrangement on it's snout. Then we
came across some huge fish that followed
the ship leaping right out of the water
the men cheered greatly it was like a race
between them and our Boat. In the afternoon
we saw two whales in the distance they
spouted but not high as we expected.
In Col Stowell gave a lecture to the Sisters
on the Founding of the Red Cross it was
wonderful, he had an audience of most
of the Medical Officers and a great many
passengers. He has such high ideals of
nurses so different from most Doctors.
We passed a Boat in the pm
Victorian Boys had Sports we went over
they were very good, one item Pillow fighting
was awfully good a huge bar was fixed up
about four feet above the deck under which
were placed: mattresses two men facing each
other armed with a pillow each sat astride the
pole, who ever fell first lost. it was
very exciting; the flag race was good
in fact all the items were good, the
boys were in good form. Took a Photo of
the boys at tea hope it comes out well.
fearfully hot we lounged about then to bed
on the deck; such a joke some one trod on
the Colonel's feet he did yell everyone laughed

11^th Awakened early to see Aden quite close at
hand it was rather wonderful to see the soft
lights of day behind the rugged peaks of rock
an island on one side and Aden of the
other as soon as the Boat stopped a lighter
came alongside and coaling began straight
away. The natives were like negroes they jabbered
greatly but couldn't come up to the Cingalese.
Not allowed to take a camera on deck. Heat
was worse than ever. Allou A list of A.M.C
nurses on the board to disembark at Suez
came as a thunderbolt talk about surprise
I quite expected we would go but not them
they are not to go on shore today either,
another blow. Went ashore c̄ Miss King and
3 others, it was hot. The main street is a
Crescent and comprises Hotels and shops
Fagan looking men in flowing robes and Fezs
came excitedly forward 'Misses, come here look
cheap, buy 'Ostriche feathers beauties for a
mere song and metal cases to put them in.
They asked exorbitant prices at first wt but came
down gradually, bought a fine chain supposed
to be silver for 4/-, wanted it badly.

had some lovely silk shirts for 8/- but as
there was a rush of them the price went
up to 15/- talk about 'Rooks.' Went to the Grand
Hotel sat on balcony under a punkah operated
by a Punkah Wallah the tables were grubby
and the men took a fearful time to bring
our drinks then forgot the ice they seemed
so stupid. Then we chartered a car to take
us to Solomon's Wells we had great
arguments with the driver to take 5 of us in one
car he said Policeman would fine him
however we squared him to take us
on the condition that one of us hid ourselves
when in the danger zone. It was funny
he yelled and cursed at Camels, carts and
all obstacles in his way, on the way we
passed 1 dead and 1 dying camel. About 5
miles out we came to the Wells of Solomon
a succession of reservoirs cut out of sheer
rock cemented round, the water was a
dark green and tasted of minerals but
that was probably due to the man perspiring
into the glass. One well took about about 5
seconds for the  a pebble to reach the bottom.

The men worked in a most antiquated
fashion, lifting the water in leather pouches
on long thongs and pouring it into a
reservoir working in groups of about 8.
Talk about heat it was intense walking
down the stone steps, we were accosted
several times for Baksheesh. Had a
hot drive back again had to do the
disappearing trick again the driver thought it
a huge joke. Passed the Barracks, a lot of
low squarely built buildings. Did some
shopping bought a silk shirt the man
demanded 15/- but came down to 6/ : was
a bargain. Had drinks then came back
in an open boat, the nigger charged us
6 each too. Left Aden at 3pm. French
Boat and armed merchantman passed
great cheering. In Red Sea saw revolving lights.
12^th R.G.M.S. Convalescent. Depot etc
paraded on Poop Deck fearfully hot business
the heat was fearful. R. Engineer from Shanghai
en Route to England 2^nd Saloon died during
night and was buried at sea at 11 am.
The men (a small company) were assembled
on the Hurricane Deck about 6 Sisters and
two Buglers. Captain from Saloon read
the Service the Boat was stopped the
Buglers sounded the Last Post and there
was a fearful splash into the Sea & then
the engines started once more. The Choir
sang 'Come unto me ye weary' rather
appropriate, considering he drank himself
practically to death. Lecture in the pm.
by Dr. Kent Hughes on P.N.S's nasal
Spur and Tonsillectomy operations and
instruments. Concert & distribution of prizes
by Mr Fiasci and family. The programme
was rather good Tom Sutterly recited 'A Toast'-
and O riel's You' splendidly. We enjoyed ourselves.
Slept downstairs and had a good night.
13^th Sunday still hot. Girls washed etc.
Attended service had some good old hymns.
Singing not much good. Felt sick at Tiffin
slept all afternoon. Had 5 cups of tea at 4 pm.
Went to other side had great arguments with Pte Janes
re matrimony he's a weird little man. with
great opinion of Himself.

14^th Much cooler today, paraded on Well
deck this a.m. fearful business going down
the steps in a strong wind. Colonel addressed.
Double General Hospitaal. Mr 
R.A.M.C girls up to their eyes packing to
disembark in a.m. Went to the other side
Boys had an impromptu Concert. Mr. Janes
resumed his arguments think he is a self
deceiving young man. Said 'goodbye' etc.
This side officers had supper. Claret-cup ad
lib. Drank healths galore. Stayed in talking
to Gillie some time. Im fond of her.
wish I had half her intellect.
15^th Arrived at Suez at an early hour, assembled
in Music Room all ladies in various costumes
some very scanty. Inspected by lady D^r.
a poor dried-up lady who clutched at you
& gazed into your face. Assembled for
breakfast but as R.A.M.C. girls were hustled
off in a hurry without any Foote & Gawler
were there. Dr. Barrett came on board, much
thinner. Gillie & Mawson had Breakfast
then eventually left I did feel sad it
was just awful to see the space where
our chairs used to be. The Boys were taken
off in a Barge, there was great enthusiasm.
Spent the morning gazing at the different
boats. Sailed at about 12 m.d. entered Canal,
it was shockingly hot, passed encampments
Forts and Companies with Camels. The Canal
is fearfully narrow and it was strange to
see land on either side. Wended our way
slowly all afternoon in the most frantic heat
Sand as far as the eye could reach, now and
then we came across Plane trees (and Palms)
c̄ most brilliant red flowers, the huts were
mud c̄ thatched roofs. In the afternoon
we passed a French Steamer, some smaller
boats, and several companies of soldiers
each set of buildings were surrounded
by entanglements. Several Indian troops
were encamped we passed a company
of Ghourkas with pipes which they played
sounded very like Scotch pipes. The troops
(English) were very friendly asked who
we were & where going poor chaps it must
be hard for them. D inner at 7 pm.
after sat on deck Port side as it was

dangerous to sit on opposite side because of
Turkish Snipers at _^regular intervals along etc
Canal outposts sentrys were posted, We passed dredges
and encampments and stations. We saw
a long train going on its way into the darkness
A party of soldiers we passed a voice out of
the darkness called 'Who are you? 'Australians'
someone answered Where are you going?
'England' was replied 'Well give them my
love' the poor chap said. I get Blue but wd
feel ashamed when thinking of the sacrifices
that are being made and the lives lost.
The Egyptian Nurses left at Suez S. Grewar
and all her Pals. I did hate them all going.
however it's all in the game. Fearfully hot
still & insects just fearful (like wee
mosquitoes)
16^th Wakened early after a noisy night,
we arrived some where about 1 am. & the
natives were coaling and making a fearful
clatter worse even than at Bombay.
Had a wash-down c̄ fresh water dressed
then after a while we were allowed on
shore to return at 9.30 a.m.
'Benares! Benares! Pullee! Pull! Pull!
not long but it was nice to get away
There was the usual scramble for places
with the natives boats really they do quarrel
and push, before handing the child in the
boat 'Baksheeshed' & collected 1^d all
round, then on landing there was 3^d to pay
we went through a Customs place then up
the City. The streets are clean and fairly
wide the shops a fair size. The verandahs
are very wide in places and there are
tables & chairs for refreshments right in
the street. The Art work both metal mosaic
pottery & tapestry was very fine & fairly
reasonable. The Mecca Stones were beautiful
Hope we come back this way so as to purchase
some curios. Had breakfast 2/- nothing to
excite one either & not particularly clean.
wandered round, had lemon squash was
good, bought some P. Cards. Lucas bought some
jewellery then came back. The people are
amusing they have picked up names one said
Hulloa  Mr Murphy from Glasgow.  Jock MacGregor

from Dublin. Mr Tommy-dod etc.
they speak English well.

It was interesting to see the Diving boys &
men Hey, Hey! me Dive! under ship for
shillin! They were very smart catching
pennies & other coins, sometimes there
was an awful scramble of four together
such spluttering & Kicking. A conjurer came
on board in flowing Tussa silk robes
& a leather bag he had two wee chickens
which he made do all sorts of weird
things, he appealed to his audience for
handkerchiefs knives silver coins as
Mr Langtree,  Madam Melba it was
funny, the last act he asked for
2 cigarettes 'not to smoke make it me
sick' he scored two then wanted a
match he lit-up then he said to a
gentleman ‘you say to me. You go away'
ah no say it louder’ which the obedient
man did the old Chap forthwith picked
up his bag & saying ‘very well I go’

departed not before he had collected
a nice little sum though. He was a
wily old fox. We left at about 12 Md.
Passed the Statue of Dr Jesseppe.

who designed or carried out the building
of the Canal a beautiful thing it is
& stands out well.
Much cooler as we get out in the open
Nurses were asked to volunteer for Transport
duty yesterday but today it was found
that 4 Doctors only were wanted, there
was great disappointment. Several new
people came on board, most foreign.
From early a.m. a boat containing about
4 men & 2 girls c̄ violins, mandolins
banjos & tambourines who serenaded &
sang all the popular airs. any coins
were adroitly caught by a girl with an
up turned umbrella, the voices were peculiar
sounded what I imagine Venetian
music must be like. I was fascinated
Still travelling c̄ lights thought that
probably we have them obscured; Fancy 
being in the Mediterranean. I can't realize
it quite. Have missed the other girls badly
but Luc has bucked up